Example of zigzag stitch used as an understitching

Sewing Like a Pro: Tips and Techniques for The BEST Results!

If you’re learning to sew your own clothes and feeling a little overwhelmed by all there is to learn, here’s a list of 10 sewing skills that you can practice today to help you sew more like a pro!

These sewing tutorials will show you how to improve sewing skills that you feel a little lacking in confidence with, and you’ll end up feeling much more excited about sewing, whether by hand or using a sewing machine!

Example of zigzag stitch used as an understitching

Sewing Techniques List

I’m going to start by providing you with a sewing techniques list so that you can have a look over it and see where you might want to focus a little more time practicing:

  • Machine tension: before you start sewing with a sewing machine you’ll want to ensure that the machine tension is good. This generally comes down to making sure you sewing machine is correctly threaded.
  • Straight stitch lines: while sewing clothes does require you to sew curved seams, the starting point for any sewing is to learn how to sew straight first.
  • Basic seams: the plain or open seam is the first that you should learn, followed by an easy welt seam.
  • Zippers: inserting a concealed seam so that it isn’t visible is one of the sure signs of a more professional finish to your sewing. There are other zipper insertion methods, but the Creme de le Creme really is the invisible zipper.
  • Enclosed hems: the most commonly sewn hem for a more professional finish is the double fold hem, as it keeps the raw edge completely tucked away on the inside, and leaves no sign of any serged or overlocked fabric edges.
  • Clean buttonhole: this was always a tricky one for me, but practice really does make perfect, and now my buttonholes look very professional.
  • Stabilized fabrics: this requires the use of stabilizers, either as seam tape or interfacings where needed. This will give your finished projects a much more professional finish.
  • Enclosed seams: the first enclosed seam to master is the French seam, but there are others that will help give your sewing a more professional finish.
  • Pockets: no garment is complete without a beautifully created pocket, and there are many options available that will help to make your finished garment more professional looking.
  • Bounce-free seams: this is possibly the most important technique on the list if you want a truly professional finish to your garment making – press each and every seam as you sew, otherwise they will be bouncy and amateur-looking.

1. Thread Your Machine Correctly

A fully threaded up sewing machine!

Growing up, it was normal to have sewing machines around, so threading a machine quickly became second nature to me.

For sewing beginners who have never seen a machine threaded, it will probably seem a little intimidating without instruction.

For this reason, it’s a good idea to practice threading up your machine a few times before you start sewing so that you feel more comfortable around your machine.

This tutorial will show you how to thread a sewing machine – it is perfect for beginners getting started!

2. Sewing In A Straight Line

The first skill to master when learning to sew more professionally is sewing in a straight line. Which probably sounds easy right? But when you have to coordinate two pieces of fabric with two hands whilst managing the sewing machine speed with your foot on a treadle – sewing a straight line suddenly becomes a lot trickier!

This sewing tutorial will help you learn to sew in a straight line in no time at all.

3. Sewing An Open Seam

The very first seam that most people start learning is the open seam – also known as a plain seam by some – and it really is the easiest seam to sew. The open seam is a simple stitched line – and it can be sewn either straight or curved – which is then pressed open so that the seam allowance sits on either side of the stitch line.

It is definitely the first seam you should start practicing!

4. Sewing A Welt Seam

The next most frequently used seam is a welt seam. An extra line of stitching reinforces this seam, which makes it great for outerwear and heavier weight fabrics such as denim.

If you look closely at the outside leg of your denim jeans, you’ll see that the seam is (usually) overlooked together, and then that seam is stitched down in place. This is the welt seam.

Learn how to sew a welt seam with this step by step welt seam tutorial.

5. Invisible Zipper

An open invisible zipper

An invisible zipper is also known as a concealed zipper and it is the one which everyone struggles with until they’ve sewn about a hundred. Then suddenly it makes sense.

I have a wonderful step by step invisible zipper tutorial so that you can practice sewing perfect concealed zippers again and again.

I recommend using the same invisible zipper, sewing it in, pulling it out, rinse and repeat. Spending an hour or two sewing an invisible zipper will be one of the best things you do for your sewing skills!

6. Double Fold Hem

The best way to get an enclosed hem and thus a significantly more professional looking hem is to sew a double fold hem. Sometimes referred to as a turned hem, the fabric at the hem is turned twice which allows the raw edge of the fabric to be completely enclosed.

It’s an easy and effective way to get a clean, professional-looking hem.

7. Sewing A Buttonhole

Women's cargo pants sewing pattern - positioning the button!

If you’re like me, you may end up taking your hand-sewn clothes to someone else to buttonhole, out of fear of messing up at the final step. I did this for quite a few years.

Then I finally took the time to understand how my sewing machine made buttonholes and I practised for a couple of hours. Now I can buttonhole like the best! 😎

You can sew a buttonhole using most sewing machines now, but you could also start by hand-sewing them. The key to a professional finish is to make sure that the buttonhole is the correct size for the button, and use a buttonhole tool to ‘cut’ through the fabric rather than a seam ripper or snips. Trust me!

8. Interfacing And Stabilising Fabrics

Welt pocket on a traditionally tailored mens jacket

The main sign of a professionally finished item of clothing is when the fabric used is properly supported. This may not be relevant to every item of clothing that you create, but using interfacing or other methods to stabilise fabric will give a cleaner finish.

In the tailoring of jackets, horsehair and sleeve rolls are used to provide support where it is needed, and this helps to maintain a gorgeous silhouette to the jacket.

If you’re not familiar with them, this great article covers all the types of interfacings used in sewing clothing, but you can also learn how to use iron on interfacing and more about non-woven interfacing and how to use it.

9. French Seams

The French seam is clearly one of my favorite seams as I do use it wherever possible. At the same time it is both time intensive and a little fiddly which makes it one of the trickiest seams for sewing beginners to master.

Generally it is sewn on garments made from fine or sheer fabric types, and is created by sewing two lines of stitching that work to enclose the raw fabric edge.

It is also sewn very narrow – which is what can make it tricky! – but practising this sewing skill will pay off with beautifully finished seams.

Learn how to sew a French seam here.

10. Pockets

A professionally finished welt pocket in tweed fabric

Many of us have experience sewing a patch pocket, or even a simple inseam pocket on a skirt, dress or pair of pants. But the true sign of a professionally finished garment is getting the ‘real’ pocket types perfect.

By this, I mean those pockets which we commonly find on more tailored items of clothing:

  • Welt pocket
  • Jetted (double welt) pocket

Mastering both of these pocket types will really help to make your handmade clothes look like they were made by a professional.

I have great tutorials on both pocket types. Learn how to sew a welt pocket here and my tutorial on how to sew a jetted pocket is here.

Bonus: Pressing Seams

Finally, it would be remiss of me not to highlight that the most obvious giveaway that something has not been sewn by a professional is what we often call ‘bouncy seams’ and this happens when your work is not pressed.

I am sometimes lazy about pressing seams – though generally only when I am creating a simple tutorial – but knowing how to use an iron to properly press your seams after each line of stitching really will give your finished garments a more professional look.

If you enjoyed this and would like to learn more about designing, patterning and making your own clothes, do pop to my main blog page where you’ll find all the tutorials to help you on your journey!

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