When you start sewing, you’ll eventually come across a sewing project that will require you to use interfacing. It’s used in dressmaking, in bag sewing and even in some upholstery sewing projects. So what is interfacing in sewing? How is it used? And what exactly will you need to use it for?
That’s what I’m going to cover in today’s article, along with some photos showing you how interfacing is used within my own projects and out in ready to wear fashion.
What Is Interfacing?
Interfacing is a woven, knitted or non-grain type of fabric that is used to provide support and strength to the fabric it is being applied to. Interfacing can be sewn in or fused on, using heat. It is available in different weights and is always applied to the wrong side of fabric.
Applying interfacing will affect the drape of the fabric, but this is often done as a design choice, to provide support and structure.
The Different Types Of Interfacing
So, what are the different types of interfacing for sewing?
Much like the different types of fabrics, interfacings can be knitted, woven and non-grain. They also can be classified as fusible interfacing or sew-in interfacing (also called non fusible interfacing). But, as noted above, all interfacings are applied to the wrong side of the fabric, so that it is not visible to anyone viewing the sewn item.
Fusible Interfacing Vs Sew In Interfacing
The difference between fusible and sew in interfacing is in the method of application.
Fusible Interfacing
This interfacing type has an adhesive on one side that melts when heat is applied to it, allowing the fabric part of the interfacing to bond with the fashion fabric that it is being applied to.
Fusible interfacing fabric is used throughout ready to wear fashion and favored by home sewers due to its speed.
When applying this type of interfacing, it is recommended to use an ironing board and a pressing cloth with more delicate fabrics to prevent heat damage from your steam iron.
Sew In Interfacing
Sew-in interfacing is used by mounting it to the fashion fabric before the garment seams are constructed, but sewing the interfacing fabric to the seam allowance of the main fabric. This method is used more in couture, though home sewers who’ve been sewing for a long time also seem to prefer this method.
Woven Vs Knitted Vs Non Grain Interfacings Vs Fusible Web Vs Fusible Fleece
Crikey, that’s a lot of options right? Worry not! Now we move onto the construction method of the various interfacing types. All of these are available as fusible and sew in options.
Woven Interfacing
Woven interfacing is similar to woven fabrics – it has a visible warp and weft – and it can be a fusible or non-fusible interfacing that you sew in. This type of interfacing should be used with woven fabric for the best results, though it can also be used on non-grain, non-stretchy fabrics as well.
I find that woven interfacing is inherently stronger than knitted or non-grain due to its woven structure, which is why it should not be used on knit fabrics – unless you wish to remove all stretch factor from the fabric! – as woven interfacing will prevent it from stretching.
As well as specifically created woven interfacings, you can also use fabrics like organza, organdie and hair canvas to add support to fabrics of a similar weight.
Knitted Interfacing
Knit interfacing is similar to knit fabric, though not quite as stretchy. It works by allowing knit fabrics to maintain their drape and stretch elements with minor support so that the resulting knit garments look fabulous and as intended.
Using a knit interfacing is great if the knit fabric you’ve chosen to use has high stretch and low recovery as the interfacing will minimize the stretch.
Non Woven Fusible Interfacing
I love non-woven fusible interfacing! It feels a lot like paper, and it’s a good choice for draping on the dress form when I am creating very close fitted designs.
It also works well for me when applied to materials like leather, when I need to apply a little extra structure for bags and purses.
Fusible Web
I first discovered fusible web when interning at the Roland Mouret studio after my fashion degree.
Also known as Bondaweb, fusible web is a layer of glue created to resemble a web – it’s often called double sided interfacing for this reason and it usually comes with a layer of paper to stop it sticking together.
The first time I used it was at Roland Mouret to bond two fabrics together, specifically, very fitted knit dresses.
The technique was called ‘araignée’ meaning ‘spiderweb’, and I’ll explain how to use it later on!
You can learn how to fuse fabric together here!
Fusible Fleece
This one is used more in quilting than garment sewing, but fusible fleece is a soft interfacing with loft. It has glue on the one side, like several other interfacings covered here, and so can be used to add a little structure and warmth to a garment.
Do Interfacings Come In Different ‘Weights’?
Yes, and the weight you choose to use will depend on the effect you want to achieve.
- Lightweight interfacing – provides minimal support
- Medium weight interfacing – a good all rounder, perfect for collars, waistbands etc
- Heavy weight interfacing – used for heavier / thick fabrics but also if trying to get a less structured fabric to be more structured
Can I Skip Interfacing?
Of course you can skip applying interfacing, but any sewing pattern recommending it is doing so for a reason – because it will help stabilize that particular area of the garment when it is sewn.
If you want a more professional finish to your hand sewn clothing, then skipping interfacing isn’t an option.
What Is Block Fusing?
Block fusing is when an entire piece of fabric is fused with the fusible interfacing rather than an individual pattern piece. The benefit is that the fabric will also be ‘pre-shrunk’ at the same time with an even application of heat. The downside is that a lot of fabric and interfacing is often wasted.
How To Choose Suitable Interfacing
Choosing interfacing comes down to pattern instructions and your own personal preference, which you will gain after some experience.
As you sew more sewing patterns, you will see notes on the pattern pieces which tell you which type of interfacing is needed, along with how much and the methods of applying it. Once you’ve had some experience, you’ll have your own personal favorites and you’ll be able to choose the interfacing that best suits your needs for your next project.
Do Interfacings Come In Different ‘Weights’?
Always remember that the weight of your fashion fabric is the most important consideration, followed by the fabric types (woven, knit, non-grain):
- Sheer fabric (woven) – it’s best to use organza or organdie as a sew-in as it will allow the main fashion fabric to retain its sheerness.
- Lightweight fabric (woven) – use either a light weight sew-in, fusible or non-woven interfacing.
- Lightweight knit fabric – use fusible tricot
- Medium weight woven fabric – use a medium weight woven, fusible, non-woven or even fusible fleece if making outerwear that will be quilted
- Heavy weight woven fabrics – use a heavy weight sew-in or fusible woven interfacing
- Medium / heavy weight knit fabrics – use a suitable fusible knit interfacing based on the fabric weight and stretch recovery
- Tailoring fabrics – use fusible hair canvas to provide the support in tailored garments
- Leathers and suedes – use a specific fusible interfacing if possible, otherwise choose a fusible weight based on the leather thickness and desired outcome
Choosing Based On Garment Section
If you’re looking to stabilize specific areas of a garment, here are some options:
- Buttonhole: fusible is easiest, but a sew-in could also be used, though I personally would avoid the latter if sewing buttonholes smaller than 2.5cm / 1 inch due to the added bulk.
- Collars: buckram, fusible, sew-in and non-grain work well.
- Cuffs: again, any of the above for collars are suitable.
- Hems: I try to go lighter in weight for hems than my garment fabric, just so that the drape of the fabric isn’t altered too much. If you’re hemming a skirt, you could use crin (also called, crinoline tape or horsehair braid) to add some structure just to the hem.
- Necklines: you can use fusible or sewn in, but I prefer to use a fusible tape to add a little stabilization to the neckline, which I was taught at fashion school.
- Pockets: while pockets don’t necessarily need to be interfaced, pocket openings do, because of the amount of stress put on this area with hands going in and out. Fusible tape works well, but so too does woven tape.
- Pocket Flaps: these will need a layer of interfacing to provide some structure and support for the buttonhole
- Plackets: whether button plackets for buttons to be placed or sleeve plackets for cuffs to be attached to, a light or medium weight interfacing will be plenty. Consider the fabric weight, and use organza / organdie if your garment is sheer!
- Seams: stay tape works well on seams that need extra support (you can also use the selvedge of your garment fabric which is woven tighter and is naturally stronger)
- Waistbands: this area of a garment takes a lot of wear and tear, so a medium weight interfacing works well for me for things like skirt, trouser and jeans waistbands. If the fabric is particularly lightweight, then I’d go down a level and use lightweight. Either sew-in or fusible will work as waistband stiffeners.
How To Use Interfacing Fabrics
Ok, lets jump into how you use the different types of interfacing fabics!
Woven Non-Fusible Interfacing
The best way to think of it is that you are mounting your fashion fabric on top of a supporting fabric.
You can apply it to the wrong side of your fabric by sewing it to the seam allowance of your outer fabric with a basting stitch. Both the fabric and the interfacing should have matching grain lines. Once all sides of the piece have been ‘mounted’ you can sew it to the connecting pattern piece.
This method is a great way to add some structure to slippery fabrics as the extra layer of fabric can be more structured than the original. I’ve used it to add support to a loose weave fabric that needed support that iron on interfacing would have ruined.
Fusible Interfacing (Knit & Woven)
To use iron-on interfacing you’ll want an iron and a pressing cloth. If using woven, make sure that the grain line is aligned.
Lay the interfacing with the fusible side down, on top of the wrong side of your garment fabric.
Carefully press – without steam is best, and it’s a good idea to avoid using a high heat. The glue should be gently heated and will then stick to the fabric. Keep an eye out for ‘bubbling’ on some fabric types!
Fusible Web (aka Double-Sided Fusible Interfacing)
This is a similar method used above but instead we will adhere two fabric layers to each other. This is great for areas of garments that are reversible, of completely reversible items!
Place your fabric right side down on the worktop. Place the fusible web on top, making sure the paper is covering it too.
Apply the hot iron to the paper, melting the web to the main fabric. Remove the paper, and then place the second piece of fabric wrong side down, on top.
Place the paper or a press cloth on top, and apply the heat again. This will melt the adhesive so that it bonds the two fabric pieces together.
See how I fused fabric to leather using this process here.
Non Woven Fusible Interfacing
With this non-woven fusible version the grainline of your fashion fabric is irrelevant as the interfacing has no grain.
Place your fabric right side down and the interfacing on top, glue side down. Lay a pressing cloth over the top and then gently apply heat with a dry iron to melt the adhesive.
If using this interfacing type to contour or drape patterns, you can lay it over your pattern making paper and apply the heat, to create your pattern pieces – learn more with my draping for beginners course!
Now that you know all about interfacings and how to use them, be sure to check out my guide on the different types of fabrics and my guide on sewing with knitted fabrics too!