This welt seam tutorial is short for a reason. Sewing a welt seam is super easy.
It’s why it is used to sew jeans, one of the most mass-produced garments ever!
You do not need lots of in-depth, step-by-step photos for a welt seam because it is such an easy seam to sew.
Note that we are talking about sewing a welt seam, not a welt pocket, which is a completely different tutorial!
I have a separate tutorial if you want to know how to sew a welt pocket!
And scroll to the bottom for the welt seam video tutorial!
What Is A Welt Seam?
A welt seam is like a mock flat-felled seam. It isn’t enclosed like a flat-felled seam is, so the raw edges will need to be finished in some way – either with a serger / overlocker or by using a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine.
Step 1: Finishing Raw Edges
Make sure you have finished the edges of your fabric pieces using a zigzag stitch or overlocker / serger. As you’ll note further down, I didn’t do this step (rolls eyes), which means the raw edge can still fray up to the point of the stitched line as in the following image!
Step 2: Right Sides Together
Place the right sides of the fabric together and sew a seam with your chosen finished seam allowance. I’m using 1 cm.
Step 3: Pressing The First Stitch Line
Press the stitches to set them. Then, press the seam open to start with, and then both sides of your seam allowance to the same side. It should look like this.
Step 4: Preparing For The Final Seam
Place the fabric open under the machine foot, with both right sides of that section facing up. Make sure that the seam allowances are still to one side of the stitch line!
Step 5: Sewing The Welt Seam
Using your sewing machine foot as a guide, sew a line down the length of the original seam, through the three layers:
- Actual garment layer
- Seam allowance 1
- Seam allowance 2
Finished! All the seam allowances should now be stitched in place with one line of topstitching. You could also edge-stitch along the edge of the original stitch line if you wanted to, to make it look more like a mock flat-felled seam. But that is optional!
Isn’t that just a pretty welt seam? You would, of course, use the right colour thread when sewing your welt seam – I used a contrasting thread so that it would show in the photos!
Welt Seam Video Tutorial
Let me know how you get on with the welt seam – I’d love to hear if the tutorial helped you!
And, if you’d like to learn about other seam finishes, I have the post on sewing French seams and this post on how to sew an open seam!
Eve Tokens (aka The Creative Curator) is a fashion designer, creative pattern cutter and sewing pattern designer.
Eve graduated with a 2:1 in Fashion Design from the University of The Creative Arts in the UK, has a BTEC diploma in Creative Pattern Cutting, a Foundation Degree in Art & Design from Wimbledon College of Art and gained extensive experience in the fashion industry by interning and freelancing for London based fashion brands – Hardy Amies, Roland Mouret, Peter Pilotto and others.
As well as running her own small sustainable fashion brand, Eve has more than 25 years experience sewing and making clothes for herself and family members.
Wednesday 23rd of November 2022
Can I send you a picture to help me understand what type of welt is being used?
Thursday 24th of November 2022
Hi Mark. Of course! Just hit reply to any of my newsletters! Best, Eve
Kahabi Ze Chaka
Tuesday 12th of October 2021
The notes is very well, big up
Wednesday 29th of July 2020
I'm loving your posts on the different types of seams! Is there a rule-of-thumb about which side the seam should go towards. Like a simple skirt with two side seams. Should the went seams go toward the front or back...or one of each?
Thursday 10th of September 2020
Hi Marcy, sorry for the late reply - I only just caught this comment! So, usually the seam allowance is pushed towards the back and then stitched down (for a welt seam) which places the seam 'ridge' towards front and the line of topstitching on the back. Of course the choice can also be personal - but you wouldn't want one going to the front and one to the back - it wouldn't be symmetrical and would look odd to the eye! Hope this helps! :)