Pattern Drafting: Drafting Patterns Using Measurements

If you love to sew your own clothes, you’ve definitely come across and used commercial sewing patterns at some point, but did you know that those patterns originate from blocks or slopers?

And those blocks and slopers are created using a technique called pattern drafting.

Note: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you make a purchase at no further cost to you.

What Is Pattern Drafting?

Pattern drafting is a pattern making process using the measurements of different body areas to create basic patterns – or blueprints if you like – of essential pattern blocks – this is often referred to as a pattern set:

1. Bodice front
2. Bodice back
3. Sleeve
4. Skirt front
5. Skirt back
6. Trouser front
7. Trouser back

The above are the seven basic patterns needed to create all the different types of clothes including:

• Tops
• Shirts
• Skirts
• Shorts
• Trousers
• Dresses
• Jackets
• Coats

What Are The Types Of Pattern Drafting?

This question is an anomaly because there is only one way of drafting a pattern, and that is by using specific body measurements or a set of generic size measurements.

There are of course other ways to make pattern blocks and I cover those in this tutorial on the five ways to make sewing patterns.

You can also learn more about the difference between pattern drafting, pattern making, draping and contouring here.

Pattern Drafting Tools

When learning to draft patterns, you’ll need a basic set of pattern making tools. This list will help, but at the very minimum you’ll need:

• A hard pencil
• A pattern master or ruler and set square
• Tape measure
• Pattern paper (more see through than regular paper)

Drafting Your Own Patterns

If you’re eager to start drafting your own patterns, then you’ll want to find someone to help you take some important measurements.

Below are checklists of the measurements needed when drafting patterns. I recommend keeping them all together in a dedicated notebook.

Measurements For Drafting A Bodice Block / Sloper

1. Bust
2. Waist
3. Back width
4. Chest width
5. Centre back length
6. Shoulder
7. Top arm

Measurements For Drafting A Sleeve Block / Sloper

1. Top arm
2. Arm length
3. Elbow length
4. Elbow width
5. Wrist circumference

Measurements For Drafting A Skirt Block / Sloper

1. Hip
2. Waist
3. Waist to hip
4. Finished length

Measurements For Drafting A Trouser Block / Sloper

1. Waist
2. Hip
3. Waist to hip
4. Body rise
5. Waist to floor

Ok, you’re now ready to learn to draft sewing patterns for yourself!

How Do You Draft A Basic Pattern?

The pattern drafting tutorials and resources listed below will help you on your journey as a beginner. And of course, you can also ask any additional questions in the comments further below!

How To Make A Skirt Pattern

This is an easy to follow step by step tutorial on drafting a skirt block using your own measurements.

Once the skirt block is created, and you’ve tested the fit with a toile, you’ll be able to develop the block into many basic patterns:

• A-line
• Gored
• Bubble
• Skater

If you’re not sure about which skirts to create sewing patterns for, this guide to the different types of skirts will help inspire you!

Draft A Basic Pant / Trouser Block

This one is a tad more complex, but my very detailed tutorial on how to draft a pants pattern will get you started properly.

Draft A Female Bodice Block

A great tutorial on how to draft a female bodice block is essential for success when pattern drafting, and the tutorial I created is exactly that.

It’s another step by step tutorial, so take your time and follow the instructions carefully!

Once completed, check the toile, make any necessary changes to the block for fit, and then you’re all set to design many different types of patterns for yourself from it!

Draft A Sleeve Block

Now that you have the bodice front and back drafted, you need a sleeve block to go with it!

Drafting a sleeve that matches the basic bodice block will open up lots of different design possibilities for you.

This tutorial on how to draft a sleeve block will walk you through the entire pattern drafting process and then this post on the different types of sleeves can be used for more inspiration.

Pattern Drafting Books

If you feel like you need additional help, there are some great books to help you draft basic patterns:

• Natalie Bray’s Dress Pattern Designing is an oldie but goodie. Don’t be deceived by the title, it’s quite a comprehensive (if old fashioned) book on pattern drafting!
• Anything from Winifred Aldrich is a winner! She has published many books but the ones I have or have used when drafting patterns are:
  • Metric Womenswear
  • Metric Childrenswear
  • Metric Menswear
• And finally my all time favorite book that I used as a tool to learn to draft sewing patterns was Patternmaking for Fashion Design by Helen Joseph Armstrong!

There are many more books on pattern drafting, but the ones listed above are the ones I started out using years ago. I also have this page on the best pattern making books which covers different pattern drafting and pattern making books for all levels.

Drafting Patterns

Once you’ve gotten the hang of drafting a pattern using measurements, you’ll be in a better position to draft other types of patterns like:

• Mandarin collar pattern
• Puff sleeve pattern
• Peter Pan collar pattern
• Sailor collar pattern

Each of the above requires the basics blocks (or commercial sewing patterns) for you to develop the patterns from.

Drafting Patterns To Sell As Commercial Sewing Patterns

If you’ve been making patterns for a while, and want to move from self drafting to design and selling sewing patterns, you might enjoy this guide on developing a sewing pattern design to sell!

You can also check out my online pattern making courses and workshops here to learn more, and I also have this great collection of pattern making tutorials here.

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