What Are The Different Types Of Sleeves?

There are many different types of sleeves used in fashion design and for good reason – the sleeve choice used on a garment can make it look fabulous, or date it to the point that nobody wants to wear it.

In addition, people who are worried about showing of their upper arm area often look for interesting ways to do so, and different sleeve designs are essential to that.

This article will cover the two sleeve ‘types’ that exist, as well as the many sleeve styles and the way that you can modify a sleeve into something new.

Sleeve Terminology

Before we get started with types of sleeves and sleeve styles, let’s have a quick look at the terminology used:

1. Sleeve cap – this the top part of the sleeve, curving from the front underarm point to the back underarm point.
2. Cap height – the cap height is the measurement from the bicep to the center of the sleeve cap, which would be where the shoulder line meets when sewn together.
3. Wrist – the part of the sleeve which sits on the wrist of the arm.
4. Elbow – this point on the sleeve is level with the elbow.
5. Bicep – the bicep is usually the widest part, where the armhole meets the side seam.
6. Sleeve ease – there is always a little extra allowance at the elbow and biceps, so that there can be more movement in the arm, and this is known as sleeve ease.
7. Cap ease – the difference between the armhole measurement and the cap is called ‘cap ease’.
8. Grain line – usually running along the centre of the sleeve from the wrist at the bottom up to the top of the cap.

Two Types Of Sleeves

Let’s first talk about the two different types of sleeves before moving onto the many style options:

• Set in sleeves
• Extending sleeves

Within each of these types there are many styles! Let’s take a look at the set-in sleeve first, before expanding into the extending sleeve options.

What Are Set-In Sleeves

So what makes a ‘set-in’ sleeve different from an extending sleeve?

A sleeve that has been set-in – sometimes referred to as an inset sleeve – is attached to a hole; the armhole. This means that the shoulder seam and the side seam of a garment should be sewn together first for there to be a hole – unless there’s some serious creative pattern cutting taking place! – which you will then ‘set’ the sleeve into.

Depending on the sleeve being sewn, the sleeve cap will often have extra fabric – known as cap ease – which needs to be gathered slightly and eased along the sleeve head, so that the measurement of the cap is equal to the measurement of the armhole. This also creates a nice fit over the shoulder tip.

It probably sounds quite complicated, but I promise you that it just takes a little practise to get the hang of setting in this type of sleeve.

You also need to consider the ‘sleeve pitch’, which is the term used to make sure the sleeve is ‘hanging’ at the right angle when it is set in. While it is a consideration for any garment using a set in sleeve, it is particularly noticeable if you get it wrong on tailored garments!

There are many types of set-in sleeves, but here are eleven examples which I’ll expand upon further down:

1. Bell
2. Bishop
3. Cap
4. Cowl
5. Flounce
6. Flutter
7. Lantern
8. Leg of Mutton 
9. Petal
10. Puff
11. Spiral

Bell Sleeve

A bell sleeve is a loose fitting, flared type of sleeve and is usually flared from anywhere below the elbow down to the hem.

It is found on shirts, blouses and dresses.

Bishop Sleeve

A bishop sleeve can have a small or large amount of fabric gathered in at the hem and is more fitted at the top of the sleeve.

This is very common on shirts and blouses, but is also becoming popular on coats and dresses.

Butterfly Sleeve

Similar in look to a bell sleeve, the butterfly sleeve is cut much shorter, finishing at the bicep of a sleeve.

A butterfly sleeve is a very popular sleeve type for dresses.

Cap Sleeve

A cap sleeve can be inset or grown-on, and is a short sleeve length, just ‘capping’ the shoulder. The pattern can be cut separately unless its a kimono style sleeve in which case is it extended as part of the bodice pattern.

Cowl Sleeve

I love a cowl sleeves! These can be made as an extended sleeve (like a kimono or batwing sleeve with extra fabric to get the draped cowl effect) or as a set-in sleeve. The cowl is again created with extra fabric.

They’re more likely to be seen on dresses and tops.

Flounce Sleeves

The flounce is a voluminous sleeve is made with a circle attached to the lower section creating a voluminous flounce.

They’re quite dramatic and seen mostly on tops, shirts and dresses.

Flutter Sleeve

The flutter sleeve is considered to be a shorter version of the butterfly sleeve, and is a flirty little sleeve often added to summer tops and dresses.

Lantern Sleeve

Slim fitted from the sleeve cap down to the wrist, a lantern sleeve then flares out and is gathered back in at the wrist.

You’ll find a lantern sleeve on dresses, tops, jumpers and jackets.

Leg of Mutton Sleeve

I think of a leg o’mutton sleeve as being a bishop sleeve in reverse, with the volume located up at the top of the sleeve rather than lower down near the wrist.

They’re recognised as an historical sleeve – they also go by the name of gigot! – becoming popular in the early 1800s.

Petal Sleeve

The petal sleeve – also often called a tulip sleeve – is a sleeve which is usually no longer than elbow length, and is formed with the ‘petals’ overlapping at the sleeve cap.

This is a style of sleeve found mostly on dresses and simple tops.

Puff Sleeve

I love a good pouffy sleeve! This sleeve style can add so much drama to a garment. You can add in small amounts to the pattern to create a gentle puff amount, or go full on and create a super dramatic pouffy sleeve!

A puff sleeve is great for many clothing types, from tops and dresses to simple blouses.

I also have this tutorial on how to draft a puff sleeve pattern and this puff sleeve sewing tutorial too!

Spiral Sleeve

I recall being in my final year at fashion school and being shown how to draft a spiral sleeve by our pattern cutting tutor – such fun!

A spiral sleeve is created by making the original sleeve pattern into a spiral – known as spiral cutting!

It can be fitted to the arm, or have some volume.

Now that we’ve covered the most common set-in sleeve types, let’s move onto the extending sleeve!

What Are Extending Sleeves

There are a lot of sleeves which are sewn without using the set in method. This makes life a whole lot easier for anyone put off by the description of the setting in sleeves method!

The main types of extending sleeves are:

1. Batwing
2. Dolman
3. Drop shoulder
4. Kimono
5. Peasant
6. Raglan
7. Shirt

Just like with inset sleeve types, these extending sleeves have many styles to choose from as well!

Batwing Sleeve

Another favourite sleeve style of mine is the batwing sleeve! There is usually no seam connecting the sleeve to the bodice, but is instead cut as one with the bodice.

The batwing can be a small amount or quite a large amount, creating a cowl effect when the arm is hanging by the side of the body.

This sleeve style is popular on tops and sweaters mostly, but can be used in other upper body garment types.

Drop Shoulder Sleeve

A drop shoulder sleeve is used for more casual wear clothing types, common in casual shirts but also other garments like loose fit denim jackets and oversized sweaters.

Kimono Sleeve

Like the batwing sleeve, a kimono sleeve is a ‘grown on’ sleeve – there are no seams other than the shoulder seam from the neckline, and side seam, unless they have been added in as a design feature.

You can also cut the garment on the fold along the shoulder line which would mean only one seam would be needed – the side seam up to the underarm, and along the inside sleeve seam.

I have a step by step tutorial on drafting the kimono sleeve pattern.

Peasant Sleeve

A peasant sleeve is usually a raglan sleeve, and is gathered in at the neckline with the bodice. The hem at the wrist is then also gathered in as well!

Raglan Sleeve

A raglan sleeve is joined with a seam running at a diagonal from the underarm up to the front and back necklines. It is quite casual sporty look and can be curved, straight or even yoked.

If the sleeve is cut as one piece, it will quite often need a dart at the shoulder for better shaping and fit over the shoulder.

You’ll find raglan sleeve styles used on every upper body garment imaginable, from dresses and tops to sportswear and outerwear garments.

My tutorial will teach you how to draft a raglan sleeve pattern and you can also learn how to sew raglan sleeves here.

Shirt Sleeve

Shirt sleeves have a dropped shoulder and either feature a large arm hole, or very fitted one, depending on whether the shirt is a casual or more formal fit.

They are usually cut as one piece and are attached to the armhole before the side seam is closed.

This sleeve type is obviously seen predominantly on sleeves but can also appear on outerwear garments like and shirt style dresses.

Now that you’ve a better knowledge of the different sleeve types and styles, lets move onto the ways you can modify a sleeve design!

Ways To Modify A Sleeve Design

There are many ways to modify a sleeve to create a new and fun design:

1. Binding
2. Cowl
3. Cuffs
4. Flare
5. Gathers
6. Gussets
7. Lengthen
8. Plackets
9. Pleats
10. Puff
11. Shorten
12. Shoulder Pads
13. Slit
14. Tucks

Binding

I’ve included binding, because although it isn’t a cuff, it does work to finish the hem of a sleeve in many instances.

It can be quite a narrow strip of fabric used to bind the hem and just finish the hem or it could be used with elastic to draw the fabric in.

Cowl

I’ve covered cowl sleeves earlier in the article but a cowl is a draped section of fabric, where an extended piece of fabric drapes down.

You could take any of the sleeve styles mentioned, open up the pattern and insert extra fabric to create a cowl effect – whether it will look good remains to be seen!

Cuffs

The cuff is used to gather in the hem of a sleeve. They can be a single cuff, or folded over. They can be buttoned up to fasten, have holes for cuff links or an elasticated channel.

Used on puff sleeves there is no opening, used on shirt sleeves they are accompanied by a placket to allow the opening to be bigger for the arm to pass through.

Flare

Adding flare to sleeve patterns can result in very dramatic sleeve styles. If you take a simple bishop sleeve pattern and add more flare into it, you will end up with a very voluminous sleeve!

Gathers

As well as adding volume to sleeves with flare, we can also add gathers to create a more gentle amount of volume in a more equal way too.

Gathers are a common favourite amongst home sewers, who often use elasticated thread in the bobbin to create a shirred, gathered look to the lower part of sleeves.

Gussets

Gussets are added to sleeves to enable more movement when a closer fit garment is worn and the sleeve design would otherwise restrict the ability to move arms with ease.

They are quite often diamond in shape, though you can of course experiment with this.

Lengthen

If a sewing pattern you plan to make has short sleeves, then you can add additional length to change them into a long sleeve.

This should be done with a plan – don’t just add length to the lower edge as if the sleeve has shaping, you may end up with a hem that isn’t big enough to fit a hand through!

Plackets

Used with a cuff or binding, the placket is used to enable the lower part of the sleeve to open and move the hand through.

There are three placket types used:

1. American
2. Classic
3. Continuous

You can experiment with the plackets being different widths, lengths and fabric choices too which will really help you change up your sleeve designs!

Pleats

Used on the sleeve hem near the placket, pleats can also be added to the sleeve cap or the elbow to allow a little more ‘space’ for movement or as a design feature.

Have a go at taking a simple short sleeve pattern and developing it with various pleat types – it’s great fun!

Puff

Adding enough volume in the form of gathers will create a puffed sleeve – once of my favourite types of sleeve! – but you can also create puff by opening up a sleeve pattern and then bringing it back in with pleats or tucks to create a puff effect.

Shorten

As well as lengthening existing sleeve patterns, we can shorten them into short sleeves to change how they will look on a garment.

Again, this is something you would want to experiment with before committing to a project.

Shoulder Pads

Not all upper body clothing types will work well with shoulder pads, but for those that will, adding in shoulder pads is another way to change the design and fit of the sleeve you’re working on.

Whether a close fit dress design or a looser fit jacket, shoulder pads can really add a lit extra to a design when done well.

Slit

Some slit sleeve designs will have a slit opening, either on the upper or under arm area. These may be free to fall as is, or they may be constrained into place by the use of a cuff or binding.

Tucks

Finally, tucks are a more subtle way of adding in a little volume to a sleeve, either at the cap, the hem and even along a sleeve seam!

Different Sleeve Styles

As you’ve seen above, there are many different sleeve styles and they can be cut as one-piece or two-piece, and or even created from many pieces!

Sleeves can have fullness at the sleeve head – Leg of Mutton sleeves – or fullness at the hem – Bishop sleeves – and everything in between.

Kimono sleeves can have a low hanging drape where the side seam goes straight into the underarm seam – Dolman sleeve – or minimal drape so the sleeve is cut to fit the arm perfectly, but uses a gusset to aid movement.

We can also use various materials to modify the sleeve shape as well. I have several jackets which use shoulder pads and sleeve heads to get a nice sleeve roll along the sleeve cap.

One designer I worked with stitched multiple shoulder pads together for a very extreme power look to his jackets.

Final Sleeve Thoughts

As you’ve learned during this article, there are different types of sleeves and styles to choose from whether you are sewing your own garments or buying one. Sleeves really can make a difference in how a garment looks, so don’t be afraid to experiment with different styles!

Many people worry about sewing sleeves, and yet sleeves are such a great way to really make a sewing pattern or existing garment even more unique!

Whether you choose a short one like a cap sleeve or a longer and more dramatic bishop sleeve, the different types of sleeves used in fashion really do have the power to transform a garment from simple and functional to stunning and show stopping!

A basic fitted dress with a simple grown on cap sleeve will look very different next to the same dress with dramatic full length bishop sleeves.

Or take a blouse and create it in denim with an inset yoke sleeve for something interesting and fun, or make it in chiffon and add a flutter sleeve for something light and flirty.

And then there is the heavily structured look of the 1980s, when shoulder pads were added to anything with an armhole for that ‘power’ look!

The choice of sleeve and fabric really can have a dramatic effect on any garment that you plan to design or sew!

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