Types of Pleats Used In Clothes
Pleats are becoming more popular in both fashion and in the sewing community, so I thought it was time we took a look at the different types of pleats used in clothing, and if it’s helpful, I’ll start creating some tutorials on sewing different pleat types? Just let me know in the comments!
But, let’s start with what a pleat is.
In their most basic form, pleats are folds in fabric that alter the appearance by adding texture. While you may have come across one or two of the types I’ve mentioned below, it’s important to know about the other kinds of pleats that you will come across in your dressmaking so that you can be more creative in your own projects!
Let’s dive straight in!
What Is Fabric Pleating?
Fabric pleating has been used in fashion since the time of the Egyptians – in simple terms it is folded fabric.
Heat is used to create wide folds in a piece of fabric and the folds are held in place with stitching at the top, bottom or both. Pleats are sometimes decorative and other times have a function.
You can have different depths of a pleat which will reflect the volume of the garment once it is finished. Something to be aware of is that adding pleats will greatly increase the amount of fabric required.
What Is The Difference Between Tucks And Pleats?
Tucks and pleats are very similar, however tucks are fully stitched folds to hold them in place and so are considered to be primarily decorative.
Pleats allow you to create fullness in your garments and are open at one end, which allows for movement and airflow in the garment.
What Are The Different Types Of Pleats?
There are 17 widely-recognised types of pleats in the fashion industry but I’m going to list my top 10 for you.
It’s not likely that you will encounter all of these, particularly in the early stages of your dressmaking life. But it’s always good to be aware of descriptions that you may come across in patterns.
I’ve gone into a little detail about each pleat below and have also included where you will most likely see the pleat in a garment.
- Accordion Pleat
- Box Pleat
- Forward and Reverse Pleats
- Inverted Pleat
- Kick Pleat
- Knife Pleat
- Mushroom Pleat
- Plissé Pleat
- Rolled Pleat
- Sunburst Pleat (also known as sunray pleats)
Accordion Pleat
As you’d expect, accordion pleats are named after the shape of the bellows of an accordion. They are narrow and evenly spaced.
Accordion pleats are often used to give volume in skirts and dresses and usually give a zigzag appearance at the bottom of the garment. They are most commonly seen in long length skirts.
Box Pleat
Created by two parallel creases which face each other, box pleats are used to give shape around the waistline in women’s skirts and on a men’s shirt at the back of the neckline.
The fabric is folded and creates a wide flat pleat at the top. Think of a cheerleader’s skirt, with the characteristic folds and flare to allow ease of movement.
Forward and Reverse Pleats
Forward pleats are found on the front of formal pants and open towards the fly seam.
- Forward pleats are considered classical English tailoring.
- Reverse pleats open away from the fly seam, towards the pockets and are held to be more Italian in style.
Inverted Pleat
An inverted pleat is where two folds are brought together to form an upside-down ‘V’ shape.
Essentially the opposite of a box pleat, you often see inverted pleats on the front of an A-line skirt. You will also see inverted pleats worn from thigh to ankle-length skirts, though most commonly knee-length.
Kick Pleat
Kick pleats are small inverted pleats that are used to allow movement and flexibility in garments such as pencil skirts.
They were first seen in the 1940s when they started to be used in the tighter-fitting skirts of that era. These pleats allow more movement and generally make the garment more comfortable to wear.
Knife Pleat
Often thought of as the simplest form of pleat and seen in clothing such as kilts, knife pleats are wider than accordion pleats and are always used in groups.
They are created by two equal folds, about one inch apart that face in the same direction. They are considered highly versatile by dressmakers.
Mushroom Pleat
The mushroom pleat is a tightly-folded vertical pleat that gives a linear look to the fabric. The fabric folds are random, in a more organic style rather than uniform as is often seen in other pleated fabrics.
Popularly used in Regency-era collars, it is also seen on modern lampshades with tightly crimped fabric on the shade. One famous and expensive variation of a mushroom pleat is the Fortuny pleat.
Plissé Pleat
A pleating technique originating in the time of the ancient Egyptians, plissé pleats create a crimped type of fabric.
The folds are created to be irregular and formed when the fabric is wet. The fabric is then heated to secure the folds.
Rolled Pleat
This type of pleat creates a tubular effect with a bulkier seam. It uses lots of fabric and gathers it all into rolls to create a fuller garment. Rolled pleats are often used in formal dresses to give volume to the skirt.
Sunburst Pleat
A sunburst pleat is made by using a knife pleat cut on the bias and arranging the pleats into a semi-circle. The pleats are smallest at the waist and get wider towards the hem.
Usually seen in women’s skirts to give fullness and allow free movement, they are also used in coats that require good fit around the neck and upper back but with a need for volume further towards the hem.
As you can see from the list above, pleating fabric is extremely versatile and allows a dressmaker to build movement and fluidity into a tighter fitting garment. It can also be a fairly easy way to embellish a simple garment. What pleats have you used in your dressmaking? I’d love to hear in the comments below!
There are other ways that you can suppress fabric instead of pleats. these other posts will guide you:
