Back in December I wanted to make a patchwork wool jumpsuit for myself using some old wool trousers – I had in mind patch working them together so that I would have enough of the fabric. I’d also had my eye on the Greer jumpsuit pattern from Hey June Handmade for a while and even talked about it in my Best Jumpsuit Patterns article.
It was a rare occurrence (for me) in that I decided to actually make a toile first – and the reasoning behind it was that I have an unusually long torso which is why I have never bought a commercially made jumpsuit – they just don’t fit me.
To make the toile, I dragged out some denim offcuts given to me by a friend when I returned from the UK.
There wasn’t a lot of fabric to work with, but I rose to the challenge – and definitely succeeded! Here’s how I made my wearable toile of the Greer Jumpsuit pattern.
Having printed out the PDF pattern I had to assemble it and cut out my size. After quickly measuring my his and bust, I went with a size 18 as my starting point.
I briefly considered adding some length to the torso, but decided it would be better to toile the pattern up as is, so that I could see more accurately what modifications might be needed.
At this point, using the denim was part of the plan to test the fit, but I ended up loving how it looked.
Step 1 – Cutting Out The Fabric Pieces Of The Greer Jumpsuit
Due to how random the denim remnants were shaped, I had to be quite creative with placing my pattern pieces, as well as exactly how much of the pattern pieces I would use.
As you can see in the photo below, I didn’t have enough denim to cut the front leg section in full, so I simply folded up the hem to match the available fabric length that I had.
The Greer jumpsuit pattern calls for the front and back pieces to be cut as one whole piece. As you can see, I did not have the amount of length required for this, so instead of connecting the upper and lower pieces as directed on the pattern, I actually added seam allowance to both and incorporated a seam, so that I could use the denim offcuts for the project.
Below I was able to squeeze out the top front and two of the four strap pieces.
I also cut out a long length of fabric to be the ruffle.
Step 2 – Sewing The Main Pieces Of The Greer Jumpsuit
Sewing the main sections of the Greer jumpsuit was easy enough.
I sewed the pieces together as follows:
- Upper front pieces at the centre front – I had to include the selvedge of the fabric as it wasn’t quite wide enough
- Low front pieces at the centre front
- Upper back pieces at the centre back
- Lower back pieces at the centre back
For all of the above, I used a welt seam – this welt seam tutorial covers the construction process.
Once all the main pieces had been joined, I then needed to sew and insert the ruffle.
I also forgot to capture the process of sewing the ruffle, but here you can see I have inserted and pinned it into the seam I used to connect the front top and bottom pieces of the Greer jumpsuit.
Below the ruffle has been stitched into place.
I really like how the ruffle looks on this jumpsuit. Although the pattern wasn’t designed in this way, I love this simple hack which makes it a little more unique!
At this point I pinned the front to my dress form and noticed that the ruffle was protruding at a 90º angle rather than laying down, so I went ahead and topstitched the ruffle so that it stay in place as much as possible. You’ll see this in photos further down.
Step 3 – Sewing The Inseam Of My Denim Greer Jumpsuit
Next up was sewing the inseam. For this seam, which takes the most wear and tear, I opted for a flat felled seam. I have a great flat felled seam tutorial if you need it.
I try to keep the welt seams sitting either side so that there is less bulk at the point where they meet on the felled seam.
Step 4 – Sewing The Side Seams
The next task is to sew up the side seams so that I could finish the front and back facings, the leg hems and armhole bias facing.
I opted for a simple welt seam again, following the seam construction method used when seaming the front and backs together.
If you have an overlocker or serger, I really do recommend finishing the raw edges of the fabric before sewing. Sadly, mine isn’t up to scratch at the moment, and despite sewing welt seam to limit it, my edges are fraying a little.
Step 5 – Preparing The Jumpsuit Straps
The straps were simply made – take the lengths and fold over a small amount on one of the shorter edges. Press.
Fold the fabric in towards the centre fold along the length of the fabric, and press.
Repeat for the opposite edge of the strap as shown in the photo below.
Finally, fold the edges so that they meet and press to finish.
I finished by sewing along the fold shorter edge and then down the folded edge too with a simple edge stitch.
Step 6 – Inserting Straps And Sewing The Facings
I completely forgot to take photos of this step in the construction process, but I pinned the straps into place at the notches which were on the Greer jumpsuit pattern.
I then laid the facing pieces over the top – one for the back and one for the front.
I stitched along with a 1cm seam allowance to secure before moving onto the boas facing in step 7.
Step 7 – Finishing The Armhole
Ideally I would have used a cotton bias binding for the armhole facing, but I didn’t have enough prepared and instead opted for this silky poly bias which has been in my stash since my fashion school days.
I started by stitching along the first fold line of the bias tape, securing it to the right side of my Greer jumpsuit.
I then wrapped the tape around the seam allowance and rolled it under before stitching in place.
If you’ve never used bias tape as a quick finishing technique, I have a bias facing tutorial which will help.
Step 8 – Hemming The Legs
With all the finishing complete, it’s just the leg hems to go.
As you can see, my rough and ready cutting out of remnants means that my hem is a little uneven so the first step was to neaten it up with a ruler.
I then turn and pressed a double fold hem before pinning it in place. This helps because the hem is slightly curved, and so I need to make sure it doesn’t distort when sewing it.
And voila, the hem of my denim Greer jumpsuit is complete!
The Finished Denim Greer Greer Jumpsuit
While I didn’t set out to make this toile something that I would actually wear, I ended up loving the fabric choice and the ruffle so much that I finished it with the intention of it being a wearable muslin.
It is a little small on the bust area for my liking – I’d rather there was more coverage across and up – but considering I hadn’t originally intended it to be wearable, more a fitting toile, I’m chuffed enough with it.
So, here’s what the Greer Jumpsuit pattern looks like on my with my various tweaks!
I’ll definitely be making the Greer jumpsuit pattern again, only next time I’ll make sure to use a softer, more drapey woven fabric so that I can appreciate the original design that Adriana had in mind when she released this pattern.
I really do like this version though, but as I discovered some fabric discoloration while sewing it, it’s an at home / gardening garment for now.
You can grab the Greer jumpsuit pattern for yourself here and check out other patterns in my best jumpsuit patterns guide!
Making The Jumpsuit Video Process
Here’s a video of some of the process of making the jumpsuit for anyone who’d like to see it.
Will you be making this jumpsuit pattern for yourself? How do you feel about jumpsuits and playsuits? Let me know in the comments below!
Eve Tokens (aka The Creative Curator) is a fashion designer, creative pattern cutter and sewing pattern designer.
Eve graduated with a 2:1 in Fashion Design from the University of The Creative Arts in the UK, has a BTEC diploma in Creative Pattern Cutting, a Foundation Degree in Art & Design from Wimbledon College of Art and gained extensive experience in the fashion industry by interning and freelancing for London based fashion brands – Hardy Amies, Roland Mouret, Peter Pilotto and others.
As well as running her own small sustainable fashion brand, Eve has more than 25 years experience sewing and making clothes for herself and family members.