There are many types of sewing machines, each suited to a specific fabric type, sewing style or skill level, but while I have previously covered the many different sewing machine types available to us, today I’m going to be digging in to what a serger sewing machine is.
We’ll also look at how it differs to a standard machine and the most popular sergers for home sewing – including a good look at the one that I use.
If you’re thinking about buying a used serger you’ll also want to review my article on hoe to buy a used sewing machine – it has some great tips to make sure you buy the right machine for you.
Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. This means that I may receive a fee at no extra cost to you if you purchase a recommended product.
What Is A Serger Sewing Machine?
A serger is a type of sewing machine that is used to sew seams on knit fabrics and finish the raw edges of woven fabrics. Sergers create a professional, finished look to garments and other sewing projects, but they can also be used to create decorative effects as well.
Sometimes called an overlock machine, the serger differs from a regular sewing machine in several ways. More on that further down.
When Was The Serger Invented?
The serger or overlocking machine used in home sewing was invented in 1964 by a group of engineers who went on to create the company ‘Juki’.
How Is A Serger Different From A Sewing Machine?
The serger differs from a sewing machine in many ways:
- Uses multiple threads – options are 3, 4 or 5 threads!
- Has a looper thread which loops over the fabric edge
- Has a fixed seam allowance amount for sewing seams
- Has no decorative stitch option
- Does not have a bobbin
- Usually has a blade for cutting fabric
- Has two sewing machine needle instead of one
- Unable to sew a zigzag stitch
Multiple Threads
A standard serger machine has space for four threads, though three and five are often used too. This is different to a standard home sewing machine where only two threads are used – the upper thread and the bobbin thread.
Looper Threads
These are the threads which cover the raw edge of the fabric, giving it a clean finish.
It’s important to note that a serger is threaded differently to a regular sewing machine, so do follow my tutorial on how to thread a serger sewing machine when you’re ready!
Seam Allowance
While on a standard sewing machine the seam allowance can be as much as the space you have available to the right (or left) of your needle, on a serger the seam allowance is fixed, despite a seam allowance guide on most sergers.
Decorative Stitch
Unlike an embroidery machine – or a standard machine with a minimal selection of stitch types – a serger does not have a decorative stitch function.
You can modify the overlock stitch created with the various tension, stitch width, stitch length and differential feed dog dials to create a more decorative finish – one method is to use one needle and one looper to create a two-thread flatlock stitch – but there is no option to switch ‘stitch types’ for a more decorative stitch style.
No Bobbin
Home sewing machines have a bobbin which holds the thread used for the lower thread when sewing on a home sewing machine. A serger doesn’t use a bobbin, but instead has upper and lower loopers which ‘overlock’ and catch the straight stitch line/s.
Fabric Cutting Blade
A serger comes with a blade (which can be set to inactive) which is an integral part of how a serger was designed to work – as a seam in one ‘cut and sew’ machine. It is this blade which also makes the seam allowance aspect irrelevant, because while your seam allowance may be 1″ / 2.5cm, the blade when in use will cut away a large part of that.
Multiple Needles
Yes a standard machine can use a twin needle, but there isn’t space for two single needles. A serger / overlocker has space available for up to two needles.
Do learn more about the different types of sewing machine needles used in sergers and home sewing machines.
No Zigzag Stitch
The final thing to note is that unlike a home sewing machine, a serger cannot sew a zig zag stitch as there is no way for the needles to move in a zigzag motion.
Can A Serger Be Used As A Regular Sewing Machine?
Unfortunately, because of the limitations of a serger, it cannot be used as a normal sewing machine. A home sewing machine is able to sew:
- Buttonholes
- Facings
- Topstitching
- Zippers
None of the above are possible on a serger / overlocker. Instead, the serger should be considered as an additional machine to use alongside your regular machine, but it is not something that can replace it.
What Is A Serger Or Overlocker Good For?
As previously mentioned, the serger is most commonly used for finishing the raw edges of woven fabric to prevent them from fraying. Used for this task, the blade cuts away any excess fabric and the upper and lower loopers wrap the fabric edge.
This overlock stitch is then held in place with the straight stitch performed by the one or two needles. In many sewing patterns, this task will be completed before sewing any seams.
The other way that a serger is used is to sew seams on knit fabrics. The ways that the stitches are created allows for some flexibility, and this suits knit fabrics very well.
For this you will want two needles in use, and at least two looper threads. The knit fabric seams are cut and sewn in one pass, so for those who prefer to sew knit fabrics, a serger is often on their wishlist.
Anatomy Of A Serger
Now that you know what sergers are used for and how they work, let’s take a closer look at the machine itself.
There are several parts to a more manual style of serger:
- Power button – turns the power on and off
- Hand wheel – used for manually turning creating stitches
- Thread stand – holds the threads used on the serger
- The cutting blade – this is used to cut away the excess fabric from the raw edges, and leaves a seam allowance of approximately 1/4″ / 7mm
- The upper looper – this creates the looped stitches on top of the fabric
- The lower looper – this creates the stitches on the underside of the fabric
- The needle – there are usually two of these, and they create the stitches that hold the fabric together
- The presser foot – used to hold the fabric in place as it is fed through the machine
- The tension discs – these control the amount of tension on each of the threads, which will affect the finished look of the stitches
- Threading guides – used to help thread each looper and needle in the correct order
- The stitch finger – this part of the serger controls the width of the stitches. On some machines, the standard 7mm wide stitch finger can be swapped out for a narrower one which is useful for sewing rolled or narrow hems
- The feed dogs – this is used to guide the fabric through the machine
Finally there are usually dials for stitch width, length, differential feed and blade.
More computerized sergers – like the Bernina L890 for instance – have a touchscreen and many stitch options while the more traditional type of serger have minimal dials and are more beginner friendly.
Now that you know what a serger sewing machine is and what it’s used for, you might be considering investing in one for yourself.
There are many sergers available to buy, from lower priced bargain finds at stores such as Aldi and Lidl in the UK to more expensive sergers direct from the manufacturer – like the previously mentioned Bernina L890 which costs over £4000!
Let’s have a quick look at some of the more popular sergers available to the home sewer, including the one that I have and use.
Popular Sergers For Home Sewing
Just like regular sewing machines, there are many ‘brands’ to choose from when it comes to buying a serger.
From Brother and Janome to Bernina and Juki, the options are vast. All will provide at least 2 needles and two loopers, many will enable you to sew a rolled hem and some work better with lightweight fabric and others can handle heavier fabric weights! Let’s look at the most popular!
The Brother 1034D Serger
This is a popular choice for home sewers, and the serger that I have. It’s a 3/4 serger machine making it suitable for both woven and knit fabrics. I’ve had mine since 2008 and it is still going strong.
That said, it is so noisy! It rattles on my worktop when I use it, but being that it isn’t broken, and has kept going all this time, I figure I can handle the noise until it gasps its last hurrah!
Janome 8002D Serger
Another popular serger for home sewers is the Janome 8002D Serger. It is smaller than my Brother 1034D – so great for anyone with a limited amount of space – but it doesn’t have a free arm so if you plan on serging small items, you’ll struggle.
It is also a little more expensive than the Brother 1034D too.
Juki MO644D Serger
Another VERY popular serger with home sewists this Juki serger is quieter than my Brother but still a serger with oomph! Its the one I’ll be buying when my Brother 1034D gives up.
Yes it looks more basic than the Brother, but I’m also a firm believer in less functions equalling a better product. It’s why I still sew on a very old but basic Bernina sewing machine – the 1008 for those not in the know!
Singer 14CG754 Pro Finish Serger
Coming in at the same price range as the three earlier sergers, the Singer 14CG754 Profinish serger might be a good budget-friendly option for you.
Like the others, it can sew with 2, 3 or 4 threads and has the adjustable stitch length and width that is found on the Brother 1034D. But, it does struggle with heavy weight fabrics, so it is recommended to use only light or medium weight fabrics.
Bernette 44 Overlock Sewing Machine
Bernette is part of Bernina, and the Bernette machines that I have encountered have been more expensive, but also of a more superior quality. The Bernette 44 overlocker is no different.
It’s important to note that an overlock machine is exactly the same as a serger, and this machine offers the same functions as the other four on my list, but because it comes with some additional presser feet, you have more options open to you.
It is another manual machine – as in it is operated with dials and no LCD screen – so you may consider it to be a little too pricey, but it is definitely worthy of a look to see if it would be the right serger for you.
Which Serger Sewing Machine Should You Buy?
No matter which serger you decide to invest in, make sure to think about what YOU need from a serger, do your research and read a variety of reviews before making your purchase.
I didn’t when I was buying my Brother 1034D and had I known about the noise it makes, I probably would have opted for the Juki or Bernette. But it has served me well – and I now have noise canceling headphones which help! 😉
If you’ve decided against a serger but consider yourself in need of a new sewing machine, do check out my guide to the best sewing machines for advanced sewers here! I also have a great guide on buying used sewing machines too!