I often hear from people daunted at the thought of using a serger, as they see them as being a more complex machine compared to a traditional sewing machine, but sergers are actually great sewing machines and very easy to use once you know how.
We can use them to finish off raw fabric edges before sewing on a standard sewing machine – and apply decorative edges too with the accompanying presser feet – but most people use them for a quick cut and sew solution when working with knit fabrics.
I have a Brother four-thread serger – sergers come with a number of threads, with four being the most commonly used in the home sewing community – and though I don’t get it out as often as I could, when I do put it to use for my sewing projects, it makes a difference to the quality of my finishing compared to using an overlock foot on my standard sewing machines.
If you’re about to get your first serger sewing machine – also known as an overlocker – and are worried about using it for the first time, this post will help you get the best results from it.
As a reminder:
- A lightweight thread on a heavier weight fabric means your serger stitches may not be strong enough to hold the seam – and thus the fabric – together for long.
- A heavy weight thread on a lightweight fabric will mean your serger stitches may be seen from the right side and the fabric is at risk of puckering too!
Serger Thread Types
There are many thread brands to choose from. Threads for sergers come on large cones, in various colors and are often referred to as ‘cone thread’ – and there are two types of thread to choose from. You should be wary of using old thread, no matter how cheap it is, as the thread is likely to be compromised in terms of quality.
Polyester Cone Thread
The more commonly used cone thread for sergers is made from polyester. Core-spun polyester thread is generally good quality, strong and durable making it much less likely to shrink or snap compared to cotton cone thread.
If you’re using your serger to sew knit fabrics, then a polyester serger thread is the best thread as it has some natural ‘stretch’ to it, which will allow your serged seams to stretch a little rather than snap when worn.
Cotton Cone Thread
Also available for sergers is cotton serger thread. Cotton thread is more prone to snapping – when serging and when a garment is in use – but for those opposed to using polyester thread, or working with natural fiber fabrics, it is a good substitute.
Thread made from cotton is also prone to shrinking, so bear this in mind too.
Regular Sewing Thread
If you are stuck and don’t have access to serger thread, you can use regular sewing thread, but this often ends up being a costly mistake:
- Standard sewing spools are generally smaller (250m vs 5000m) so the cost per meter is higher
- Serger thread is generally core spun and finer, making it more durable for long term use
Some people will tell you that if you do use regular sewing sewing thread in a serger, your serger may not work as well and have tension issues, but again, I’ve never had a problem. I do make sure to do a test sample and tweak the different dials on my Brother 1034D until my serger stitches are perfect.
All that to say that while you can use regular sewing machine thread in your serger, it is best to use a purpose made thread that has been specifically designed to work best with this more.
Serger Thread Brands
There are many brands making different types of thread for sergers now, but the best serger thread brands to choose from are:
- American & Efird
- Brothread
- Coats
- Gutermann
- MaxiLock
- Metler
- Serafil
- Simthread
Hopefully you found this helpful for getting started with your new serger. If the color-coded guide on your serger is confusing, then do check out my tutorial on threading up a serger sewing machine below. Each of the four different threads are threaded up on their own and in a specific order – which is why people think of them as complicated machines – but once you know how to thread a serger, you’ll be wondering why you ever worried!
If you have any questions do pop them in the comments below, but I’ll leave you with a selection of other posts I’ve written on sergers and overlockers!