I’ve covered the different types of sewing machines previously, including leather sewing machines, but I’m often asked about the types of industrial sewing machines and whether they’re really needed by the home sewer, a budding fashion designer or the advanced sewer.
So today, I’m sharing my experience of owning and using an industrial machine, the various industrial machine types available and the features available on the more modern versions.
If you’re not yet ready for an industrial sewing machine, I should point out that there are some amazing professional sewing machines available that offer high speed sewing and take up less space than industrial machines. That article is definitely worth checking out.
Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. This means that I may receive a fee at no extra cost to you if you purchase a recommended product. I only recommend items I have experience with.
My Industrial Sewing Machine
When I went to fashion school, the work studios were full of a variety of industrial sewing machines – made up of Juki and Brother industrial machines. I became very comfortable and confident using them, so they were for a long time my preferred machine choice.
I had the most amazing industrial sewing machine when I had my own fashion studio in London. It was an industrial Brother flatlock machine, and I used it daily up until I gave it away in 2016.
In fact it was a machine with some history behind it having been originally used in the Alexander McQueen studio in London! I felt like maybe some of his design genius rubbed off on me whenever I sewed with it!
I had bought this industrial machine as a fashion student from a fellow student who was graduating and had no place to store it. I used it to sew my fashion collections as part of my fashion degree, the sampling I did as a freelancer after graduating myself, and my collections as an independent fashion designer. It was an amazing machine, and I actually still have many of the special presser feet I had invested in so that I can use them when I finally have space for my next industrial machine.
If I hadn’t been moving into a small space, I would have kept it, but as I had only paid £600 for it second hand, I couldn’t justify putting it into storage for £50 per month, on top of the £300 I had already spent on storage after graduating. So I gave it away for free to a woman who was starting her own childrenswear business.
Do I regret this? Often, but it was the best decision at the time.
What Are Industrial Sewing Machines?
So what are industrial sewing machines? These are machines that are meant for industry and are used in factories around the world that need to sew materials together. Most relevant for us is the garment manufacturing industry as that is the industry that fashion and clothing design falls into.
These machines are mounted onto tables which provide space for the product being sewn while the machines themselves are built for durability, reliability and speed.
Each industrial sewing machine you see has just one job.
What Are The Different Types Of Industrial Sewing Machines?
If you were to visit a garment manufacturing factory, you would see many types of industrial sewing machines present. While a domestic sewing machine can perform many functions, industrial machines are a one task machine, meaning each machine there has a specific job to do.
Some of the different types of industrial sewing machines are:
Blind Hem
The job of this industrial sewing machine is to sew blind hems. And I have to say, the handful of times that I have used one, I struggled!
If you’ve ever used a blind hem foot on a domestic machine, you’ll probably understand why – the blind hem machine has to be used in a very specific way to get the best results, but when used properly, you will have invisible and beautiful blind hem finishes!
Industrial Buttonhole Machines
Another industrial machine that I am not a fan of, this time because of their power and noise! I used to go to D. M. Buttons in London to get my buttonholes made – he had several industrial buttonhole machines available, and charged a reasonable price, so it made sense to go to him.
Again, you’ll need to be very accurate with marking your buttonhole placements, as once they’re sewn and cut, the job is done and there’s no going back. Scary!
3, 4 or 5 Thread Sergers
There are different types of industrial sergers (or overlockers) available and then can be three, four or five threads.
Some are designed to work with woven and knit fabrics, while others are just for knit fabric types.
The ‘merrow’ edge is just one example of a finishing that is created by sergers, but theye are used for other purposes too.
Learn more about how a serger works!
Cover stitch
This is a type of industrial sewing machine that has two needles and which finishes the hems of knitted fabrics in a very clean way.
Again, not my favorite machine type – we had two at my fashion school, and I always struggled to use them. Actually, it’s probably a large part of why I prefer to work with woven and non-grain materials rather than knitted fabrics!
Hemming
As well as the aforementioned blind hem machine, there are other types of industrial hemming machines available. Another popular type is the rolled hem machine.
Flatbed Machine
The industrial sewing machine that everyone knows about, the flatbed (also known as the flat lock) machine sews a straight stitch. It can be used to sew wovens, knits and non-grain materials using specific presser feet.
This is the industrial machine I had for many years, but one I used throughout my time at fashion school was the Juki industrial sewing machine.
And if you feel that an industrial flat lock machine is too bulky, do consider a professional sewing machine instead, unless you’re an advanced sewer looking for the most suitable sewing machine!
Waistband Sewing Machine
Another example of industrial sewing machines with one purpose is the waistband sewing machine. Used only to attach waistbands to garments, it looks like a rather complex industrial sewing machine don’t you think?
Walking Foot Machine
Finally, the walking foot machine is another example of a popular industrial sewing machine. This machine is much like the flatbed, but it has only one foot type – the walking foot – which is a permanent attachment. I loved using the one we had at my fashion school, but unless I started working solely with leathers and other sticky materials, there is no way that I could justify having one due to the space they take up.
Which industrial sewing machine type you opt for will greatly depend on the needs you have and the garments you’ll be making. But you’ll also want to consider the motor type and level of automation as well!
Clutch Motor Vs Servo Motor
Something to consider when looking at buying an industrial sewing machine is whether it is a clutch motor or a servo motor.
Clutch Motor
Usually on older machines, the electric motor is always running and drawing power. The clutch pedal works by engaging the clutch which transfers the power from the motor to the machine, just like driving a car.
Servo Motor
The more sophisticated motor on industrial sewing machines is the servo motor, which only draws power when needed. Even more importantly, the servo motor allows for smart control circuitry which means that very precise actions can happen despite its full load. This is why more modern industrial machines have automated tasks built in, like backstitching a few stitches and thread cutting.
Think of it as driving a combi-car like the Toyota Prius – when you’re not moving, the engine cuts out and waits, when you put your foot to the accelerator, the engine comes back to life to power the movement required.
AC vs DC
The final consideration when it comes to clutch motor vs servo motor is the electricity that they run off. Now, I have always been rubbish at science-y type stuff, so I’ll keep it as brief as possible to avoid confusing you:
- AC = alternating current (can change from negative to positive or positive to negative)
- DC = direct current (the voltage is always constant)
Why is this important? Because servo and clutch motors work with different currents! (This confused me when I had my Brother, and I had someone come in to make sure I could use it at home!)
Servo motors need a rectifier on board which will convert the AC wall current to DC which is what they run off, while clutch motors are induction motors and can run natively from the AC wall current.
We’ll leave it there then shall we?
What Are The Differences Between A Manual vs Automatic Industrial Sewing Machine?
With all of the above in mind, it’s clear that the more automated functions are only really available on a machine with a servo motor. So what are the benefits of each?
Manual vs Automatic
The manual industrial sewing machines work much like a domestic sewing machine. Filling a bobbin is done manually as is threading a needle and cutting the thread. While some domestic machines can do the last two tasks, they are the more expensive machines on the market. So if you’re looking for a straight stitch machine, a clutch motor industrial machine that is cheaper as a second hand machine may be better for you.
On the other hand, a servo / automatic machine will allow you to automate some of those time intensive tasks such as back tacking a specific number of stitches, cutting the thread and loading a new bobbin with thread whilst you’re sewing.
Again, these are tasks that are done by some home sewing machines, but the strength and reliability of an industrial machine can outweigh the domestic machine depending on what and how you’ll be using it.
What Do You Need An Industrial Machine For?
There’s no right answer to this question. It all boils down to what you’ll be using your machines for, but most people who buy industrial sewing machines do so because they are looking for higher speed from a more reliable machine that can handle a greater workload than a standard domestic sewing machine.
It’s important to note that industrial sewing machines are designed to work with different fabric types. Some will work best with leathers or canvas while some are best suited for dressmaking fabrics such as cottons and fine silks.
If you are a new designer that is only going to work with fine fabrics to make evening or bridal wear, then a machine like the Juki 9000B may be perfect for you.
On the other hand if you’re a leather worker wanting to produce work on a machine rather than by hand, you’ll be better off with a walking foot machine specifically for working with leather.
And then there’s the person who dislikes woven fabrics and only wants to work with knitted fabrics – a serger and a coverstitch machine may then be the only machines you’ll ever need, assuming you will never insert a zipper of course!
My Brother Industrial machine was a great all rounder. It sewed silks, cottons, denim, leather and up to two layers of my own constructed textiles without struggle, but when I tried to put more than three layers of heavier weight fabrics through it, it balked. I had to take the work into school to complete those parts on the dedicated walking foot machine, and once I graduated, I made sure to only design garments that could be sewn on that machine.
So, before deciding which industrial sewing machine to invest in – because they are an investment! – you’ll want to sit down and think about what it is you want to use this type of machine on.
Domestic Vs Industrial Sewing Machines
The final things to consider when thinking about buying an industrial sewing machine is the space and price, which is why we’ll now compare industrial machines against domestic sewing machines.
Domestic Sewing Machines
Used by the home sewer – and people like me who want to highlight that making professional looking clothing is possible on a home sewing machine – domestic sewing machines mainly differ from industrial machines on price and size.
Most domestic machines:
- Are made from plastic, so they’re lighter
- Are supplied without a table, so take up less space
- Have a less powerful motor, so are less expensive and slower
- Have a variety of stitch types, so are more versatile
Industrial Sewing Machines
Are predominantly used in a factory setting or small design studios and are generally a more expensive option.
Most industrial sewing machines:
- Are made from metal, so are very heavy
- Are supplied with a table, so take up more space as well as being heavier
- Have a clutch or servo motor which is both heavy, fast and powerful, so are more expensive
- Are capable of one stitch / finishing type, so are less versatile
Whether you opt for a domestic or industrial sewing machine, you’ll have similar options for presser feet and needle types, so the main considerations are:
- The amount of space you have available
- The budget you have set aside for the machine
- The garments or fabric types you’ll mostly be sewing
- The workload you expect to need your machine for:
- A domestic machine is more versatile but will struggle to keep up with a heavy sewing workload
- An industrial sewing machine is more limited in terms of functions but with more speed and reliability, you’ll be able to sew for hours on end without burning out your machine
As I mentioned at the start of this article, I wish I still had my industrial brother sewing machine. It was a great versatile machine and I miss not having such a heavy weight machine ready to sew at speed and on demand.
When I commit to a new design studio space the first thing I will do is invest in a new industrial machine, but for now, I get by with my variety of domestics which get the job done well enough.
If you’re thinking of buying a sewing machine, do check out my guide on buying a used sewing machine first – I’ve been told it’s super helpful! And if you’re thinking that leather is a material you want to sew more with, check out my article on the 8 best leather sewing machines!
Finally if you consider yourself not quite read for an industrial sewing machine, do check out my article on the best sewing machines for advanced sewers!