Part of making clothing is ensuring that garments we sew are finished beautifully, so that they can stand the test of time, and this often involves the addition of some type of waistband. We use waistbands primarily on skirts and pants, but as well as helping us to finish the top of those garments nicely, they also serve more than that one purpose. Let’s dive in and discover why waistbands are necessary on clothing, the types of waistband you can use, and some finishing techniques used when making a waistband.
What Is A Waistband?
A waistband is the part of a garment which is located at the waist of a garment. Generally the waistband is used to finish the top hem at the waist, hiding the raw edge away inside the waistband, but they actually serve three purposes:
- To finish the waistline of a garment.
- To prevent the item of clothing from falling down.
- To provide strength and stability at the waist for the fabric it is attached to.
While sewing patterns come with a waistband if it is part of the design, it may not be one that suits your personal preference so it is important to remember that the perfect waistband is the one which provides a perfect fit for you – do not be afraid of modifying a waistband if a certain types provides a good fit for you.
The Different Types Of Waistband
Waistbands exist in different types:
- Faced waistband
- Fold-down waistband
- Shaped waistband
- Straight waistband
- Wrap waistband
Within each of the above we can also see variations in which other elements are included:
- Drawstring waistband
- Elasticated waistband
Let’s look at each in more detail.
Faced Waistband
This waistband type is used for a cleaner, more invisible waist finishing. The facing pattern is always created from the original pattern pieces – I have a tutorial on how to create a waistband facing pattern if you need help with this – and then the desired amount of seam allowance is added before the waistband facing is cut from a separate piece of fabric.
The waistband facing is then attached along the top edge of the garment with right sides together before being pressed, clipped and turned over so that the facing is hidden inside of the garment. If part of the design, the hem of the facing is also attached to the lining.
This waistband type is popular for garments that require an invisible zipper to be installed at one of the side seams.
Fold-Down Waistband
Commonly used for pull-on style clothing, the basic fold-down waistband is an extension of the main garment and is created by folding down extra fabric at the top edge of a waist to create a fabric waistband casing from the same fabric – a little like a grown on button placket on shirts. A fold-down waistband is most often straight and acts as a casing for an elastic band that is threaded through with a safety pin or bodkin before the waistband is completely closed.
It’s also popular on a gathered or circle skirt made from tulle or net, where elastic is sewn to the very top edge of the waistline and then folded down just once to enclose it.
Shaped Waistbands
Shaped waistbands are also known as curved waistbands – or even a ‘contour’ waistband to some of us – and are usually made up of several pieces of fabric that are stitched together rather than the long straight waistband we’ve seen become the ‘norm’. A shaped waistband provides me with a more comfortable fit at the waist, especially when the garment is being made from a medium or heavy weight fabric that will sit at the natural waistline. It’s important to note that I do find that shaped waistbands are not as necessary if I am working with lightweight fabrics.
If you do have a more curvy body shape like me, you may find that a curved waistband will help the waistband sit more comfortably and lessen the chances of any gaping at the back.
Straight Waistband
Straight waistbands – often what we refer to as a regular waistband – are one of the most common ways to finish a waistline. The method uses the waist measurement of your skirt or trousers to create a separate waistband from a piece of fabric that is the same measurement. This can be cut as one wide piece to create a folded edge along the length, or two narrower pieces that are sewn together along one long edge. This is then attached to the waist to complete the finished garment.
I often find that a straight waistband can feel as though it is cutting into my waist when made from a heavier weight fabric, like denim or leather.
Wrap Waistband
Garments that fall from the waist down can sometimes be in ‘wrap’ form, and this requires a waistband that can wrap around the body. I have a tutorial on creating a DIY wrap skirt, which uses bias tape as the waistband, but there are different widths that are suitable for wrap style waistbands.
Cased Waistband Variations
I feel like I should just cover something that is incorrectly written about and taught elsewhere: neither the drawstring or elastic waistband is a ‘waistband type’ – they are in fact a variation insofar that the waistband already exists, it’s just that a drawstring is inserted through it! The type of casing used for drawstring cord is exactly the same as the type of casing used for elastic.
Drawstring Waistband
A drawstring waistband is made from a straight or shaped waistband. Typically the waistband is prepared first – eyelets are installed while the waistband piece is on the flat – and then when it is attached to the waistline, and lines of topstitching have been sewn to create a channel, the drawstring itself is threaded through one eyelet, through the channel and out the other end at the second eyelet. A knot is then created to prevent the drawstring being sucked back into the channel and lost.
This waistband style is found on casual sportswear items like the Trigg shorts I made for my partner as well as swim shorts and joggers.
Elasticated Waistband
Another variation on a type of waistband, the elasticated waistband is used to provide easier access to a variety of agreement types but also as a way to provide a level of comfort we often need – the elasticated section can be the entire casing or just a section like the back of the garment.
This waistband is created using either the straight or shaped waistband, though with the latter, elastic only works if it is minimally shaped, and this is because of the rigidity found in some types of elastic. Some suitable options for an elastic casing include:
- Braided elastic
- Buttonhole elastic (great for waistbands on children’s clothing where the waist size can be adjusted more easily)
- Knit elastic
- Woven elastic
If you plan on using elastic in a waistband, do check out my tutorial on sewing an elasticated waistband – I cover a simple method but also one where we sew multiple rows of topstitching to create a wide waistband that looks and feels fab.
The type of waistband you choose for your next project really depends upon the comfort that you need from it as well as the different looks each provide – I know that in my twenties I was very against an elasticated waist as I felt that it was for ‘old’ people, yet now in my forties I love them. At the same time, some people may find that an elasticated waist is just a little too casual and opt for faced waistbands instead. There is no right or wrong, only what is best for YOUR needs!
