I am someone who loves to design and sew my own clothing, and this has recently expanded to sewing my own underwear. This is of course helped by the large number of underwear sewing patterns available to us, whether paid or free.
But not all underwear patterns are equal, and the one you choose needs to be appropriate for the type of underwear that you want to sew. You wouldn’t pick a thong sewing pattern if you intend to sew panties with full coverage.
Then you need to think about the type of fabric that you want to use. I’ll cover the more commonly used fabrics for underwear further down, but you’ll need to pay careful attention to the pattern information provided before buying a paid sewing pattern.
Finally, you’ll also need to consider the difficulty level of an underwear sewing pattern – a corset is considered a type of underwear but may be far too complex for a sewing beginner, while someone looking for a challenging sewing project will likely be left feeling underwhelmed and unfulfilled if they make panties using one of the simple hipster patterns available!
The great thing about sewing underwear is that there are many paid and free underwear patterns available and they’re often made up of small pattern pieces that you can easily print at home.
Materials Suitable For Sewing Underwear
Choosing the right material for your underwear project is essential and getting it right really will make all the difference. Most underwear patterns are designed to be used with stretch fabric types – either jersey or a fabric with elastane or spandex mixed in.
You’ll want to choose a fabric that has enough stretch factor added to comfortable stretch around the body but also good recovery so they do not sag and fall down all the time. You’ll also want to ensure that the fabric you choose is suitable for the type of underwear – woven fabrics are not frequently used for any underwear except boxer shorts, areas of some bra styles and corsets.
This is because it isn’t the most comfortable to wear very close to the skin, as movement is limited by fabrics with no stretch.
Fabric For Underwear
When you pick fabric for your undies you’ll want to choose something that is soft against your skin, is breathable and also able to wick any moisture away. Some options are:
- Cotton jersey
- Bamboo jersey
- Modal / rayon jersey
These are all natural / man-made fabrics and more suitable for being worn close to the more sensitive areas of your body.
Making Use Of Lace
A great way to add a little femininity to your underwear is to incorporate some lace – it has that romantic appeal many of us love doesn’t it? For comfort you should aim to include stretch lace which will move with your body rather than digging into your skin.
Lace can be applied as an accent detail on a panty or it can be used all over as a full lace panty. There are so many types of lace that you’ll find something that you like!
Elastic
Considered an essential when it comes to sewing underwear, elastic should be soft and comfortable against your skin too.
There are so many different types of elastic and it can be used to gently gather fabric or used as a form of support, like bra strap elastic.
PUL
PUL (Polyurethane laminate) is a waterproof fabric that is used for making period underwear. You’ll want to look for PUL that is breathable and comfortable against the skin and then use PUL as a lining for your underwear to prevent leaks. It comes in various thicknesses with the 2mm thick variety being more suited to heavy flow requirements.
Okay, let’s take a look at the different types of underwear patterns! I’ll be breaking these down into paid and free sewing patterns, and including options for both men and women, so you can head right to what you need.
5 Free Panty Patterns
There are so many types of panties that it will be impossible to break this list down by type, so I’m just going to go through the free underwear sewing patterns that are available.
Note that as these are free, they make a great starting point for learning to sew underwear and although the instructions may not be the most detailed you will learn some sewing skills. I’ve also only included those that are available as a pdf sewing pattern.
Acacia Underwear Pattern – Megan Nielsen
This low rise bikini cut underwear pattern is available for free from Megan Nielsen, though you do have to subscribe to their newsletter in order to get access to it without paying.
That said, it is worth doing so as the pattern is such an easy sew and results in a comfortable fit. You can make this indie pattern up in any knit scraps you have lying around in your stash, which makes this pattern a perfect introduction to sewing your own underwear!
The size range is great – size 0 though to size 30! – and Megan Nielsen makes the Acacia pattern available in standard sizing or curve sizing and there’s also a ‘mini’ version for little ones!
Maxine High Waist Panties – Evie La lùve
This free panty pattern from Evie La Lùve is a gorgeous high waisted panty. The pattern comes in size XXS through to XXL – seven size options which cover a waist measurement of 24″ / 61cm through to 34.5″ / 88cm and the hip measurement spans from 33″ / 83cm through to 43.5″ / 110cm.
For this free panty pattern you’ll need:
- 20″ / 50cm main fabric
- 7″ x 6″ / 17cm x 15cm scrap of lining fabric
- 99″ / 2.5m fold over elastic
I’m no longer able to fit into this pattern due to my size increasing but for those who aren’t as curvy, it’s a lovely pattern, and free!
Noelle Panty Pattern – Madalynne
Another high waist panty pattern which is also a free download, the free Noelle underwear pattern is from Madalynne, and is a great pattern with some solid reviews.
The sizing range is similar to the Evie La Lùve panties – seven sizes covering XS through to 3XL. The specifics are 23″ to 41″ in the waist and 33″ through to 50″ on the hip, so the Madalynne grading is more inclusive in sizing than the Evie La Lùve grading.
Finally, there are no instructions with the pattern, so if it’s your first time sewing panties, this may not be the best pattern to start with, but there is a video tutorial available over on Creative Bug which she links to in the pattern description.
Tonika Panty – Madalynne
A second free pattern from Madalynne, the Tonika sewage pattern is a thong panty pattern that makes a great scrap buster! The pattern is available in sizes XS through to 5XL which covers 25″ / 63.5cm though to 48″ / 122cm on the waist and from 35″ / 89cm up to 58″ / 147cm in the hips.
For the Tonika thong you will need:
- ¾ yard main fabric with 8-20% stretch
- ¾ yard lining fabric
- ⅜” Wide fold over elastic for the leg openings
- 1 ½” wide elastic for the waist
Note that the fabric amounts do cover the accompanying bralette pattern too, so you will use less when just making the thong panty.
Bingley Boxer Shorts – Peppermint Mag Issue 22 / Measure Twice Cut Once
One for the fellas – and those who like a loose fit boxer style underwear – this is a great sewing pattern that is free to download from the Peppermint website.
The sizing is 6-18 / XXS-XXL and covers a waist of 22.8″ / 58cm through to 34.7″ / 88cm and hips are 32.7″ / 83cm though to 44.6″ / 113cm. As the pattern is quite simple though, it is easy to size up if like me you need a larger size, however you can also buy the pattern in a larger size range directly from the original pattern designer’s website if hacking isn’t your thing.
5 Paid Panty Patterns
If you’d prefer to pay for a panty pattern to make your own panties, then the sewing patterns below come with more detailed instructions – as you’d expect with a paid pattern! – a bigger size range and will help you to learn new skills too!
Anais Undies Pattern – Closet Core Patterns
This is a somewhat new pattern from Closet Core Patterns, and is a great addition to the paid panty options available to us all. It’s suitable for a confident beginner, providing good coverage with either a high rise or low rise bikini cut.
It is more on the pricey side for an undies pattern, but you do get the quality with Closet Core Patterns – which includes an extensive size range (generally they include the full size range in your purchase!) from a size 0 though to a size 32.
This covers body measurements of 24″ / 61cm through to 53″ / 134.5cm at the waist and 33″ / 84cm through to 63″ /160cm at the hips. Finally, in my experience the sewing instructions are generally some of the best available from a sewing pattern company.
Check the Anais panty pattern here.
Bloody Mary Menstrual Briefs – Fitiyoo
Who doesn’t love comfy underwear during their menstrual cycle? And these menstrual briefs are not only perfect for that time of the month, but are also one of my favorite patterns. Sizing is based on full hip measurements – and the sizes cover 29 ½” / 75cm though to 51″ / 130cm.
One thing I love about this pattern is that if you’re never going to wear a high waisted panty, you can buy just the low waist option, and vice versa. And for those who don’t mind a bit of variety, we can get the bundle of both waist options. Yes, some may balk at the price, but it’s a lot more cost effective (and planet friendly) than sanitary items we generally need each month.
Find the Fitiyoo menstrual panties pattern here!
Comox Trunks – Thread Theory
Another one for the fellas, this paid men’s underwear sewing pattern is both form fitting and comfortable (or so I’m told!). It comes in sizes 24 – 45 which covers a waist measurement of 24″ – 45″ and a hip measurement of 31″ to 49″. That’s an approximate 60cm – 112cm waist and 77cm – 122cm for the hips for us non-imperial peeps!
As well as being printable, the Comox trunks are also supplied with projector files, great for those who prefer not to use paper at all.
Hipster Sewing Pattern – Wardrobe by Me
This is a simple hipster pattern with full coverage and is sewn up in jersey knit fabrics. There are multiple options for this pattern:
- High, medium or low waist
- Curved crotch or narrow crotch option
- Elastic legs or fabric band legs
Which provides a variety to choose from so you could have a different hipster panty for every day of the week if you were feeling creative!
Knickers Pattern – Sew Over It
This is a paid pdf pattern from Sew Over It. Once completed you’ll have a gorgeous pair of frilly knickers! I love SOI patterns as they come with clear instructions making them great for the adventurous beginner as you won’t need to struggle alone.
This pattern calls for lightweight woven fabrics such as cotton lawn (yay!) but you’ll also need a little jersey for the gusset lining. The sizing is more limited than some of the free panty patterns we looked at above; it ranges from a size XS which has a 36″ hip through to a size XL which has a 44″ hip.
This knicker pattern does make a great gift idea though, if you fancy sewing some up for close friends and family.
That’s ten underwear patterns that will make sewing your own undies a treat no matter which style of underwear you prefer. I hope you find your perfect undie pattern amongst these, but if you feel there’s a better one than those I’ve covered, please do let me know in the comments below!
And if you’re eager to sew other types of underwear do stay turned for my other guides, including corsets, bodysuits and bras!