I’ve previously covered the different types of necklines, collars styles and sleeve types, all three of which are garment details used to modify basic garment shapes into more fashionable items, but what about hemlines?
There are also many hemline types available too – and I do not mean hem finishings eg the double fold hem, but the style of the hem itself – with some being more popular than others.
The great thing about hemlines is that if you were to start with a simple dress, shirt or skirt shape and apply a different hemline to it, you would end up with many
So, the next time you are thinking of creating a new piece of clothing for yourself using a sewing pattern, make sure that you also consider the hemline that it has and whether you want to change it up to make it more unique!
Hem Finishes vs Hemlines
Before we dig into the various hemline types I think we should first look at the difference between hem finishes and hemlines, just to make sure there’s no confusion!
Hem Finishes
A hem finish is the way that a hem is finished. The most common ways to finish hems are single fold and double fold hems (I have a collection of hem sewing tutorials if you need help with this) but others include the blind hem and pin hem.
Hemlines
Hemlines are the shape or style of the hem. Most clothing types have a simple straight hem or slightly curved hem. These are hemline styles. Other hemline types are A line or bubble.
Think of it like this: An A line hem can be sewn as a single fold, double fold, pin or blind hem. The hemline style has a hem finish applied to it.
What Are The Different Types Of Hemlines?
Now that we’ve got that clear, let’s dig into the different types of hemlines themselves.
A-Line Hem
As the name implies, this type of hemline gives the garment a shape which looks quite like the capital letter ‘A’, narrower at the top and widest at the hem. Whether a skirt, dress or shirt, the garment will gradually flare from the waist – or shoulder – down and as a result, most garments that feature the A-line hem will have a slightly curved hem.
Please note that the term ‘A-line’ is the general word used to describe clothes with similar shapes.
Asymmetrical Hemline
Again, this type of hemline is pretty self-explanatory. A hemline that is asymmetrical refers to any hem that is not a straight hem or uneven. Garments that incorporate an asymmetrical hem are usually quite eye-catching with their wild different leveled hemlines on the bottom edge of the dress.
You’ll find this type of hemline on waterfall skirts, mullet skirts, and high-low skirts. It is easily distinguishable as either the dress’s front, side, or back has a high and low length.
Learn more about skirt styles here.
Bubble Hem
The bubble hem, which broke through the mainstream in the early 2000s, appears to be making a bit of a comeback. This hem type features a bottom edge that is gathered to form a hemline that is narrower than the initial edge of the garment.
This gives the bottom of dresses and skirts a balloon or bubble-like appearance, hence, the name. This one is certainly attention-grabbing and is something you will most likely see with fashionistas.
Let me know if you’d like to see a tutorial on creating a bubble hem effect, I’d be happy to create one!
Fishtail Hem
A fishtail hem gives clothing the appearance of, you guessed it, a fish. For example, the fishtail hemline is generally incorporated in skirts. It provides the dress with a tight and form-hugging appearance from the waist to the knee, where it will flare out, in the shape of a fishtail.
Most garments that feature the fishtail hem will have a flowing hem that is usually longer in the back compared to the front. It is also often partnered with a highly fitted waist and bodice, which will help accentuate the flared hem even more.
Flared Hemline
A flared hemline takes the flared style and pushes the design further. This can be done as single front and back panel pieces for skirts or with multiple panels that are flared out and when sewn together have a super flared look to them.
Handkerchief Hem
Some might say that a handkerchief hem has an almost fairy-like design, with it’s uneven hemline, and it is undoubtedly one of fashion’s most aesthetically-pleasing hemline styles.
The handkerchief hem term refers to a dress or skirt made up of several panels of fabrics that fall in points. The overall appearance that this gives to the garment hem is akin to the corners of a handkerchief.
In fact, when I lived in NYC back in the early 2000s I spent most summers fluttering about in light and floaty handkerchief skirts and tops!
The handkerchief hem also has particular advantages when used in a garment. For example, this type of hemline is generally used to shift the focus away from the wearer’s hips and thighs by making it appear as if the legs are longer than they appear. Though being as tall as I am, this was not the reason for me loving them!
High-Low Hem
The high-low hem is often used to give dresses a unique look. This type of hemline features a front hem which is significantly shorter than the back. Aesthetically, the high-low hem adds a certain level of fun or sensuality to the garment.
Dresses that feature the high-low hem are mostly worn during special gala events – the Oscars and Met Gala ball are popular events for this hem style! – though it isn’t uncommon to see a high low hem on more casualwear garments too.
Ruffled Hemline
A ruffled hemline features ruffles along the edge of the garment. This is achieved by using a tightly gathered or pleated piece of fabric, lace or ribbon which is sewn to the hem edge and give a ruffled appearance.
This is a popular hemline style on flamenco dresses but also on tiered gathered maxi dresses.
Shark-Bite Hem
The shark-bite hem is another uneven type of hemline wherein the sides are longer than the middle. As you can imagine from its appearance and name, it is made to look as if the garment had a good chunk of it bitten off by a shark. Hence, the name.
To be fair, you would never catch me in a dress or skirt with a shark-bite hem – sounds lacking in style to me, what do you think?
Also, the edges of the hemline are jagged and uneven, which further hammers the appearance of a shark bite.
ShirtTail Hemline
This classic hemline style features a longer back compared to the front, and the middle of each has a curved shape. It is very popular for dress shirts and shirt dresses.
The design has some practical reasons, the first being that it makes the shirt easier to tuck into pants and skirts.
Slant Hemline
Some think it’s a classy and unique style – I don’t! – but the slant hemline refers to garments that feature a hem that is longer on one side compared to the other.
It’s a bit like one shouldered tops too – I don’t see the point!
Slit Hemline
This hemline features a slit running from the hem upwards and comes in varying lengths. It can be a short or long slit and is often a standard fixture in pants, dresses, or skirts.
The slit can be created within a seam, by not sewing the two pieces completely to the hem or it may be that a cut is made into fabric and the edges of fabric finished to create the slit.
Step Hem
The step hem is chiefly used with polo shirts, and it features a front hem higher than the back.
Tiered Bottom Hem
The tiered bottom hemline incorporates extra layers of fabric that give the garment a tiered appearance.
Which Hemline Style Will You Be Using?
As you can see, there are plenty of hemline styles to choose from and which you go for will largely depend on the garment that you are making. You wouldn’t add a fishtail hem to a shirt of course, but it could be a great hem style for a dress or skirt that you’re planning for the holiday season.
When making a shirt, you can incorporate a different hemline to the classic shirt tail style if you’re after a more unique look. The design Comme de Garçons often design shirts with a more unusual hemline, so look to them for inspiration!
In the meantime, let me know in the comments below which one you like the sound of most of all, and whether you’d like to see any pattern making or sewing tutorials related to hemlines!