14 Hemline Styles Used When Sewing Clothes
The edges of clothes are called hemlines, and they can be finished quite simply or more creatively. Hemlines should not be confused with hem finishes. I have already written about the different hem finishes you can use to finish a hemline, so today I want to share the different hemline styles that you can use on your next sewing projects!
Hemlines are the shape or style of the hem. Most clothing types have a simple straight hem or slightly curved hem. These are hemline styles. Other hemline types are A line or bubble.
Think of it like this: An A line hem can be sewn as a single fold, double fold, pin or blind hem. So it is a ‘hemline style’ has a ‘hem finish’ applied to it.
The Different Types Of Hemlines
Let’s explore the different hemline styles then, so you can gather ideas for your next sewing project.
A-Line Hem
An A-line hem – as the name implies – means that the garment shape looks like an all-caps A; narrow at the top, and at its widest at the hem.
This could be a shirt, skirt of dress, and the garment will gradually flare out from the waist (or even the shoulder!) and down to the hem. You’ll often find that A-line hems are slightly curved too.
Asymmetrical Hemline
A hemline that is asymmetrical refers to any hem that is not a straight hem or uneven. Garments with an asymmetrical hem can be quite trend based rather than classic in style.
You’ll find this type of hemline on waterfall skirts, mullet skirts, and high-low skirts.
Bubble Hem
My goodness, who remember the bubble hem of the early 2000s? Though it was recently back in fashion in 2024! This hem type features a bottom edge that is longer and wider than the lining of the garment, and when sewn together on the lower edge, a gathered bubble hem is created.
Let me know if you’d like to see a tutorial on creating a bubble hem effect, I’d be happy to create one!
Fishtail Hem
This hem style can look quite dramatic as it is often paired with a tight and figure hugging upper section of a skirt or dress. The lower part flares out in the shape of a fishtail.
Most garments that feature a fishtail hem will have a flowing hem that is usually longer in the back compared to the front.
Flared Hemline
Flared hemlines can be done as single front and back panel pieces for skirts or with multiple panels that are flared out and when sewn together have a super flared look to them. They can also be applied to dresses and skirts of all length, whereas the A-line hem, which is also a flared hemline, is rarely used for any garment below knee length as it becomes less effective in design.
Handkerchief Hem
An uneven hemline, with four corners of fabric falling lower than the edges, a handkerchief hem looks much like a handkerchief does when you pick it up from the centre and allow it to drape down.
When I lived in New York City back in the early 2000s I spent most summers fluttering about in light and floaty handkerchief skirts and tops! They were so simple to create, and kept me cool too!
A handkerchief hem is also popular with those who want to shift a viewer’s attention away from the wearer’s hips and thighs – it helps to make legs look longer than they are! Though being as tall as I am, this was not the reason for me loving them!
High-Low Hem
A high-low hem features a front hem which is significantly shorter than the back. Dresses that feature the high-low hem are mostly worn during special gala events – the Oscars and Met Gala ball are popular events for this hem style! – though it isn’t uncommon to see a high low hem on more casual-wear garments too.
Ruffled Hems
A ruffled hemline has ruffles along the edge of the garment. This is achieved by using a tightly gathered or pleated piece of fabric, lace or ribbon which is sewn to the hem edge and gives a ruffled appearance.
You can sew a ruffle from a straight or spiral piece of fabric, and they have different names accordingly!
This is a popular hemline style on flamenco dresses but also on tiered gathered maxi dresses too.
Shark-Bite Hem
This is another uneven type of hemline wherein the sides are longer than the middle. This makes the garment look as though it has had a good chunk of it bitten off by a shark.
To be fair, you would never catch me in a dress or skirt with a shark-bite hem – sounds lacking in style to me, what do you think? Also, the edges of the hemline are jagged and uneven, which further hammers the appearance of a shark bite.
Shirt Tail Hemline
This is a classic hemline style for shirts, featuring a longer back compared to the front, and the middle of each has a curved shape. It is very popular for dress shirts and shirt dresses.
The design has some practical reasons, the first being that it makes the shirt easier to tuck into pants and skirts.
Slanted Hemline
Some think it’s a classy and unique style – I don’t! – but the slant hemline refers to garments that feature a hem that is longer on one side compared to the other. Its another asymmetric style hem, a bit like one shouldered tops too – I don’t see the point!
Slit Hemline
This hemline features a slit running from the hem upwards and comes in varying lengths. It can be a short or long slit and is often a standard fixture in pants, dresses, or skirts.
The slit can be created within a seam, by not sewing the two pieces completely to the hem or it may be that a cut is made into fabric and the edges of fabric finished to create the slit.
They usually exist to make movement in a garment easier, but also to make some skirt and dress styles more come-hither.
Step Hem
The step hem is chiefly used with polo shirts, and it features a front hem that is higher than the back hem.
Tiered Bottom Hem
The tiered bottom hemline incorporates extra layers of fabric that give the garment a tiered appearance.
Your Hemline Choice
There are plenty of hemline styles to choose from and which you go for will largely depend on the garment that you are planning to make. You wouldn’t add a fishtail hem to a shirt of course, but it could be a great hem style for a dress or skirt that you’re planning for the holiday season.
When making a shirt, you can incorporate a different hemline to the classic shirt tail style if you’re after a more unique look. The design Comme de Garçons often design shirts with a more unusual hemline, so look to them for inspiration!
If you want to make a shirt this summer, I have a post on five of the best cotton fabrics for shirts that will guide you well and if your stuck on which type of shirt to sew, check out my guide on different shirt styles too!
In the meantime, let me know in the comments below which one you like the sound of most of all, and whether you’d like to see any pattern making or sewing tutorials related to hemlines!
