Some call them snaps, others call them press studs, but whatever you call them, today I’m going to show you how to sew on snaps with this easy tutorial! If you’re in need of help attaching the non-sew type of press stud, I have another tutorial showing you how to install press studs with a tool.
What Are Snaps?
Snaps are a type of fastening used to fasten two layers of fabric together. One side has a spike spike – this is the ‘ball’ – and the matching piece has a hole, known as the socket side. I’ll explain more about the parts of a snap further down. Snaps are a more traditional fastening type, come in different materials and sizes, and are frequently used sewing supplies.
Different Types of Snaps
There are a few different types of snaps now, here’s a quick overview of each before we dive into the process of attaching them!
- Sew-on snaps: these are the type of metal snaps that have little holes for hand stitches. In the UK they’re also called ‘poppers’.
- Snap fasteners: these are generally the snaps that are attached with a snaps tool, which are visible on both the right and wrong side of the fabric.
- Magnetic snaps: a type of snap with each side having a magnet which is used to connect them.
- Snap tape: this is a simple cotton tape which has either metal or plastic snaps inset into it, at regular intervals. It’s frequently used in home decor and sometimes as a fastening on the openings of baby clothes, leotards and bodysuits.
Parts Of The Snap Button
There are two main snap parts that make up the full snap button, and this is true whether its sew-in snaps or the ones used with snap pliers.
- Socket portion: this is the first part of the snaps button and it has a small hole – which is bigger than the sewing holes for sew-in snaps – that is used to house the ball portion.
- Ball portion: the second half of the snap has a small ball section and it is this that makes the snap sound when enough pressure is added to connect the two. The ball portion is always placed on the underside of the garment.
As well as the two main snap parts above, which are found on all snap fastener types, there are two other sections which are used for the type of press studs that require a pair of pliers:
- Snap cap: this is the visible part of the snap button which is visible on the outside of the garment. It is attached to the socket portion with one or more fabric layers sandwiched in between.
- Snap base: this is the part which is used to secure the ball portion of the snap to a piece of fabric. It is also the piece that is likely to sit against the skin if there is no lining or facing to hide it.
Why Use Snaps?
Small snaps are a great way of discretely fastening a garment, or helping a garment to provide more coverage than was originally intended. They’re also used in their strips / tape form for baby clothes, as the individual sets of snaps that are sewn on are generally considered to be a choking hazard.
Other clothing items that use snaps are the closures at the crotch for leotards and bodysuits but the larger snaps are used for clothing like jeans and jackets too. Just make sure to measure the diameter of the snap to check the size is suitable for the fabric you’re using: a large metal stud will not work well on lightweight fabrics such as chiffon, as they will be too heavy for the fabric and cause it to distort.
Finally, one of the benefits of using snaps instead of buttons is their removability: it’s impossible to remove a buttonhole once cut into the fabric, whereas snaps that are sewn on are easy to remove once no longer needed. Granted, they are not as strong as other fastening types, but they do a good job and it’s worth knowing how to sew them. Let’s get started!
How To Sew On Snaps
Let’s get to sewing in the snaps. You’ll need a hand sewing needle and a suitable thread for this tutorial, as well as the traditional snaps that come in just two pieces. If you want to learn how to attach the four piece press studs with a tool, I’ll have a separate tutorial on that shortly.
Step 1: Perfect Alignment
In order for your press studs to look good and work well, they need to be in as close to perfect alignment as possible. I use a fabric marker to mark the locations of each piece of the snap on the two pieces of fabric so that I know they’re well aligned.
Step 2: Starting Stitches
I like to start by getting my stitches secured so that the thread is connected to the fabric before I start attaching the snap sections. Create a knot path at the end of the thread, and then use your needle and thread to sew a few stitches on the right side of the garment. This will be covered up by the press stud, but if you prefer, you can also sew the first stitches on the wrong side – the downside is that there will be nothing to keep these initial stitches from being visible.
Step 3: Sewing The Bottom Layer
Once you have sewn several starting stitches, you can take the ball section of your press stud, and pop it on the mark that you made. There are different ways that people like to sew the snaps on but I like to choose one of the holes of the snap, and make small tight stitches through the fabric layer and this first hole, until it is secure.
I like the second hole to be directly opposite, so that two sides are secured, and so I take my needle and thread under the snap and up through the next hole, again sewing small and tight stitches to secure.
The third and fourth holes are sewn in exactly the same way. You can trim your thread but leave a long tail, as we will want to check the snap before finalizing.
Step 4: Sewing The Top Layer
The final step for sewing on snaps is to sew the socket part of the snap to the top of fabric. This will be invisible to the eye when worn, but any stitches that come through to the outside of the fabric will be seen, so practicing your hand sewing technique will ensure invisible stitches.
Start by placing the two garment pieces together as you want them to be – for example, matching up the front placket at the top – and then using two pins, create a small cross where the socket part needs to be. I then use the crossed pins as a guide for where I need to place the socket part which allows me to make sure that both pieces of the snap are in alignment.
Start by sewing the secure stitches needed as the base on the hidden side of the fabric, making sure the stitches do not penetrate through to the right – visible – side of the fabric.
Place the snap onto the crossed pins, and choose one hole to start your hand stitches at. The snap will cover any excess thread from your initial stitches.
When you feel that the first hole is secure, move around to the hole opposite, running the needle and thread underneath the snap, and sew some tight hand stitches there to secure it. It’s a good idea to double check that there are no visible threads on the right side as you sew.
Finish the two remaining sides of the snap with the same stitches.
Step 5: Testing The Snap
Now that both pieces of the snap have been sewn into place, you can test the snap. I like to do this before I trim my threads, just to make sure.
Snap together all the poppers. You’re looking for an even distribution and no bubbling or buckling of the fabric, which would suggest that the snaps are not in proper alignment. If all is good, you can tie off your thread ends.
The Final Result
Hurrah! You’ve successfully sewn a sew-on snap onto fabric, and it works. If you’re not entirely happy with how your’s came out as a first timer, do not worry – the great thing about sewing on snaps is that they can be removed, so you can keep trying until you’re happy. I would recommend that you practice on regular fabric from your scraps to begin with so that you don’t weaken the fabric of the garment you want to sew studs to.
If you enjoyed this and want to learn more, I have an entire article covering the different types of fastening used in clothing, as well as an article on installing snaps with a tool!