2 Way Stretch Vs 4 Way Stretch, and Tips For Sewing Them

I recently purchased a sewing pattern which lists 2 way stretch fabric as essential. The instructions stated that this was because it was essential that the fabric stretched in both directions.

And reading this made me pause in confusion. You see I had always been taught at fashion school that a fabric with 2 way stretch doesn’t allow for stretching in all directions. So why was I now being told by a sewing pattern company that it does?

I will note that when I talk about stretchy fabric, it applies to both woven and knit fabric types!

How Fabric Stretches

In order to understand 2 way stretch vs 4 way stretch, you’re going to first need to understand how fabric stretches.

Mechanical Stretch

Most woven and knit fabrics are made with yarns that have some give or elasticity, even if tiny. This is what allows the fabric to return to its original shape after being stretched out and this is called ‘mechanical’ stretch.

The amount of elasticity, or stretchiness, in a yarn will determine how much the fabric can stretch and still return to its original shape – this is known as ‘recovery’.

The greatest stretch on any fabric is usually on the cross grain, when you pull the fabric from selvage to selvage.

Added Stretch

Stretch can be increased by adding in stretch fibers, such as elastane, spandex or lyrca. Depending on the percentage added, the stretch factor can increase by a little or by a substantial amount.

Fabric Content

Fibers such as cotton have minimal stretch ability – this is why 100% cotton jeans became less popular once a stretch factor was added in the form of elastane or spandex. The additional amount of stretch provided more comfort when worn. At the same time, bamboo is a very stretchy fiber and fabrics made with it will have more stretch.

You can also learn about elastane vs spandex vs lycra.

Fabric Construction

As I mentioned in the intro, the construction process used to create fabric also plays its part. Cotton that is woven will have less stretch than cotton that is knitted, due to the looser structure of knitted fabrics vs woven.

Stretch Directions

Let’s look at the various directions in which fabric can stretch.

One Directional Stretch

When a fabric is made with yarns that only stretch in one direction, it is referred to as having ‘one-way’ stretch. This type of fabric will only stretch in the direction that the yarns were designed to stretch.

One directional stretch fabric will have more give or elasticity in one direction than the other. This is why it’s also sometimes referred to as two-way stretch fabric. Aha, see that? One directional stretch = two way stretch!

An example of a one directional stretch fabric is bias tape. Bias tape is often used to finish the edges of garments because it can be stretched to fit around curves.

Two Directional Stretch

When a fabric is made with yarns that stretch in multiple directions, it’s known as having ‘two-way’ or ‘four-way’ stretch. <– And THAT is where the confusion comes in my friend!

This type of fabric will stretch in both the lengthwise and crosswise direction.

Two directional stretch fabric typically has the same amount of give or elasticity in both directions. This is why it’s sometimes also referred to as four-way stretch fabric.

Now that you know how fabric stretches, let’s take a closer look at 2 way stretch vs 4 way stretch.

How To Recognise 2 Way Stretch Fabric

2 way stretch fabric has been constructed so that it can stretch in one direction. The threads that make up the fabric have been set up so that they are able to move side to side, but not up and down. An example would be double knits which for the most part are 2 way stretch.

You can find out if your fabric is 2 way stretch as follows: if the fabric has no stretch running parallel to the selvedge then it is a 2 way stretch. The fabric is stretching on the weft – across the girth of the body if cut on the straight grain – but not the warp.

It is also (confusingly) known as one-way stretch or single-axis stretch.

How to Recognise 4 Way Stretch Fabric

4 way stretch fabric has been constructed so that it can stretch in all directions. The threads that make up the fabric have been set up so that they are able to move side to side as well as up and down.

This means that the stretch happens in both the straight grain and cross grain of the fabric, like many jersey knits that you’ve probably worn. It is also known as all-way stretch or multi-axis stretch.

Which Stretch Fabric Should You Choose?

The answer to this question really depends on what you plan to use the fabric for.

If you need a fabric that will stretch in all directions, perhaps for swimwear or dance wear garments, both of which need greater mobility options when being worn, then you will need to choose a 4 way stretch fabric. This will allow the fabric to stretch around the body as well as from the top of the garment to the bottom.

If you only need a fabric that will stretch in one direction – either around the body *or* the length of the body – then a 2 way stretch fabric will suffice.

Keep in mind that not all fabrics are created equal and just because a fabric is advertised as being 2-way or 4-way stretch doesn’t necessarily mean that it actually is. For this reason, you should always check the labels and do a stretch test to work out the stretch percentage before making your final decision.

How to Do a Stretch Test

A basic stretch test is very easy – take a piece of the fabric you’re considering that is at least 4″ / 10cm square.

Hold one edge (the selvage edge) down and gently pull its opposite edge away. If it stretches out you have a one direction (aka two way) stretch fabric. Note that you stretched it on the cross grain, which is common for some stretch!

Repeat for the second side – this would be top to bottom. If it stretches this direction as well, it’s a four-way stretch! You just need to factor the percentage!

Working Out the Stretch Percentage

Working out the stretch percentage is easy if you’re using a fixed measurement of fabric like 4″ / 10cm.

Stretching it out to:

• 11cm means that it has 10% stretch
• 15cm is had 50% stretch
• 20cm is has 100% stretch

My Main Tricks for Sewing Stretch Fabric Successfully

Machine Type: Stretch fabric types can be sewn on a domestic home sewing machine, and if you have one then overlockers (also known as a serger) do a great job on the general sewing of seams while a coverstitch machine will give you a great hem finish.

You can also achieve the look of a coverstitch hem on home sewing machine by using a twin needle, and this will work on knit or woven stretch fabrics.

Needle Type: Using the right needle goes a long way in getting a great finish with stretch fabric types. For knits, like jersey fabrics, you’ll want to use a special needle known as a ballpoint needle – it has a rounded tip so won’t damage the continuous loop that knits are made from. For stretch woven fabrics, you could use a universal needle or a stretch needle.

Fabric Cutting: Stretch fabrics are easier to cut with a rotary cutter, but you’ll want it to be sharp for a clean edge. This is extra important if you plan to have a raw edge of the fabric on those stretch fabrics that won’t fray.

Thread Choice: The thread you use is also something to consider when sewing stretch fabric. When I use my overlock machine I use overlock thread, but on my home sewing machine I am more likely to sew a straight stitch and use Maraflex thread from Guttermann which has a bit of stretch to it and gives a bit of stability to the seams, so they won’t pop when stretched.

Stitch Type: You can also sew stretch fabrics with a lightning stretch stitch or zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. Test this on some scrap fabric to make sure that you have the right stitch length and make adjustments to allow the seam to stretch slightly.

And then the usual things apply such as using pins or clips to hold your fabric pieces together and not allowing the fabric to hang from your worktable / sewing machine area as this can stretch out the fabric before it is sewn.

I hope that this post has helped to clear up any confusion you might have had about 2-way and 4-way stretch fabrics. There is so much more that could be covered including the different stretch fabric types, but I feel they deserve their own posts along with more specific sewing and construction tips too, rather than squishing it all into this article.

If you have any further questions, please feel free to leave a comment below and I will do my best to answer them. And if you’d like to learn more, I have a guide about knit fabric types that you might also find helpful!