2 Way Stretch Vs 4 Way Stretch: What’s The Difference?

I recently purchased a sewing pattern which lists 2 way stretch fabric as essential. The instructions stated that this was because it was essential that the fabric stretched in both directions.

And reading this made me pause in confusion. You see I had always been taught at fashion school that a fabric with 2 way stretch doesn’t allow for stretching in all directions. So why was I now being told it does?

It’s important to note that when I talk about stretchy fabric, this applies to both woven and knit fabric types!

How Does Fabric Stretch?

In order to understand 2 way stretch vs 4 way stretch, you’re going to first need to understand how fabric stretches.

Mechanical Stretch

Most woven and knit fabrics are made with yarns that have some give or elasticity, even if tiny. This is what allows the fabric to return to its original shape after being stretched out – this is mechanical stretch.

The amount of elasticity, or stretchiness, in a yarn will determine how much the fabric can stretch and still return to its original shape – this is known as ‘recovery’.

The greatest stretch on any fabric is usually on the cross grain, when you pull the fabric from selvage to selvage.

Added Stretch

Stretch can be increased by adding in stretch fibers, such as elastane, spandex or lyrca. Depending on the percentage added, the stretch factor can increase by a little or by a substantial amount.

Fabric Content

Fibers such as cotton have minimal stretch ability – this is why 100% cotton jeans became less popular once a stretch factor was added in the form of elastane or spandex which provided more comfort when worn. At the same time, bamboo is a very stretchy fiber and fabrics made with it will have more stretch.

You can also learn about elastane vs spandex vs lycra.

Fabric Construction

Again the construction process used to create fabric plays its part. Cotton that is woven will have less stretch than cotton that is knitted, due to the looser structure of knitted fabrics vs woven.

Stretch Directions

Let’s look at the various directions in which fabric can stretch.

One Directional Stretch

When a fabric is made with yarns that only stretch in one direction, it is referred to as having one-way stretch. This type of fabric will only stretch in the direction that the yarns were designed to stretch.

One directional stretch fabric will have more give or elasticity in one direction than the other. This is why it’s also sometimes referred to as two-way stretch fabric. Aha, see that? One directional stretch = two way stretch!

An example of a one directional stretch fabric is bias tape. Bias tape is often used to finish the edges of garments because it can be stretched to fit around curves.

Two Directional Stretch

When a fabric is made with yarns that stretch in multiple directions, it’s known as having two-way or four-way stretch. <– And THAT is where the confusion comes in my friend!

This type of fabric will stretch in both the lengthwise and crosswise direction.

Two directional stretch fabric typically has the same amount of give or elasticity in both directions. This is why it’s sometimes also referred to as four-way stretch fabric.

Now that you know how fabric stretches, let’s take a closer look at 2 way stretch vs 4 way stretch.

What Is 2 Way Stretch Fabric?

2 way stretch fabric is a fabric that has been constructed so that it can stretch in one direction. The threads that make up the fabric have been set up so that they are able to move side to side, but not up and down.

Typically, if the fabric has no stretch running parallel to the selvedge then it is a 2 way stretch, because it is stretching on the weft – across the girth of the body if cut on the straight grain – but not the warp.

It is also (confusingly) known as one-way stretch or single-axis stretch.

What Is A 4 Way Stretch Fabric?

4 way stretch fabric has been constructed so that it can stretch in all directions. The threads that make up the fabric have been set up so that they are able to move side to side *and* up and down.

This means that the stretch happens in both the straight grain and cross grain of the fabric.

It is also known as all-way stretch or multi-axis stretch.

So Which One Should You Choose?

The answer to this question really depends on what you plan to use the fabric for.

If you need a fabric that will stretch in all directions, for greater mobility options when wearing it, then you will need to choose a 4 way stretch fabric. This will allow the fabric to stretch around the body as well as from the top of the garment to the bottom.

If you only need a fabric that will stretch in one direction – either around the body *or* the length of the body – then a 2 way stretch fabric will suffice.

Keep in mind that not all fabrics are created equal and just because a fabric is advertised as being 2-way or 4-way stretch doesn’t necessarily mean that it actually is. For this reason you should always check the labels and do a stretch test to work out the stretch percentage before making your final decision.

How To Do A Stretch Test

A basic stretch test is very easy – take a piece of the fabric you’re considering that is at least 4″ / 10cm square.

Hold one edge (the selvage edge) down, and gently pull its opposite edge away. If it stretches out you have a one direction (aka two way) stretch fabric. Note that you stretched it on the cross grain, which is common for some stretch!

Repeat for the second side – this would be top to bottom. If it stretches this direction as well, it’s a four way stretch! You just need to factor the percentage!

Working Out The Stretch Percentage

Working out the stretch percentage is simple, if you’re using a fixed measurement of fabric like 4″ / 10cm.

Stretching it out to:

• 11cm means that it has 10% stretch
• 15cm is had 50% stretch
• 20cm is has 100% stretch

Phew, I hope that this article has helped to clear up any confusion you may have had about 2 way and 4 way stretch fabrics. There is so much more that could be covered including the different stretch fabric types, but I feel they deserve their own articles with sewing and construction tops too, rather than squishing it all into this article.

If you have any further questions, please feel free to leave a comment below and I will do my best to answer them.

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