I’ve just added a free side seam pocket pattern to my shop, and thought I should show you how to sew the side seam pocket using it.
This is a great tutorial for you if you need to add an inseam pocket to the side seam of pants, a skirt or a jacket – so often on clothing there are no side seam pockets, and now you can add your own in!
To get started, grab the side seam pocket pattern from my free sewing patterns library. It’s completely free!
I also have a side seam video tutorial if you prefer to watch – scroll down tot he bottom of this tutorial to watch it.
Before we get started, I thought I’d let you know about the series of pocket tutorials I have created, in case there is a different type of pocket that you’d like to learn about and make:
- Accordion pocket tutorial
- Jet pocket tutorial
- Patch pocket tutorial
- Slash pocket tutorial
- Welt pocket tutorial
Where Should Side Seam Pockets Be Placed?
I like to place my side seam pockets approximately 10cm / 4″down from the waistline on a skirt or pair of pants, but this can differ depending on how long your arms are and how low you like your pockets to sit.
How Do You Sew A Side Seam Pocket?
The side seam pocket is one of the simpler pockets to construct, and can also be added to existing clothing in need of some pockets. There are five types of side seam pockets – more on those another time! – but how do you sew one?
Use the steps below, and you’ll have beautiful side seam pockets every time.
Step 1 – Print The Free Side Seam Pocket Pattern
Print it out – in the tutorial I’m using is printed at 60% scale which is a good size for small hands, but for adults, I suggest printing at 100% so that it has lots of room – then add your chosen seam allowance to the dashed line.
I’ve already added 1cm – that is the non-dashed line – but you can add more or less and then cut out the finished pattern piece.
Step 2 – Cut Out The Pocket Pieces
Once you have printed and cut out your pocket pattern, you can cut out your pocket pieces in the fabric of your choice.
For this tutorial, I am using two fat quarters in different colorways.
Step 3 – Side Seam Pocket Placement
Next, place the pocket pieces on the fabric of as shown. Make sure that the pieces are right sides together and pin to secure in place.
I also recommend that you finish the raw edges of your pocket pieces beforehand, so that there is less risk of fraying. As this is a sample, I’ve omitted that step.
Step 4 – Sew The Pocket Pieces To Side Seams
Now sew and then press the front and back side seam pocket pieces to their respective side seams so that they look like the above photo.
Step 5 – Pin Pockets and Side Seams Together
Lay the top pocket piece on top of the lower pocket pieces, right sides together. Pin together, and pin the side seam sections that need to be sewn.
Step 6 – Sew Side Seams
Sew from the top edge of fabric down to the point where your pocket is sewn onto the front and back pieces. Repeat from the lower pocket section to the side seam hem.
Your side seam pocket should now look like the photo below.
Step 7 – Sew The Pocket Bag
How sew from the top of the pocket, around the pocket perimeter and back into the side seam, connecting with your earlier stitch line.
Step 8 – Press The Pocket To Finish
Be sure to give your nice new side seam pocket a good press. Depending on how well you sewed it, you may or may not need to clip into the side seam slightly to ‘release’ the fabric. I’ve not needed to, so follow my steps and yours should be good too!
Here’s how my side seam pocket pattern turned out.
Isn’t the contrasting fabric colors lovely to look at? You can use the same fabric as your garment or contrasting fabric, the choice is yours!
But the full sized version will most likely also fit your phone!
Side Seam Pocket Video Tutorial
Remember that you can grab your free side seam pocket pattern from my free sewing patterns library.
Eve Tokens (aka The Creative Curator) is a fashion designer, creative pattern cutter and sewing pattern designer.
Eve graduated with a 2:1 in Fashion Design from the University of The Creative Arts in the UK, has a BTEC diploma in Creative Pattern Cutting, a Foundation Degree in Art & Design from Wimbledon College of Art and gained extensive experience in the fashion industry by interning and freelancing for London based fashion brands – Hardy Amies, Roland Mouret, Peter Pilotto and others.
As well as running her own small sustainable fashion brand, Eve has more than 25 years experience sewing and making clothes for herself and family members.