Twill is a widely-used and adaptable fabric and yet we often don’t really notice its use in our everyday lives. When asked ‘What is twill fabric?’, most people wouldn’t necessarily know that they probably have twill fabric all around them in their everyday lives.
Twill has a range of uses and its durability is what makes it so popular for items such as denim, industrial clothing and upholstery.
In this article, I’ll look into how twill is created, used and best cared for as well as some tips on how to sew with twill fabrics too!
Be sure to check out my fabric types article if you’re keen to learn more!
What Is Twill Fabric?
Historically, twill is one of a trio of original types of weave, along with plain and satin, that have been in use for thousands of years. The name ‘twill’ describes a specific type of weave that creates a diagonal or diamond pattern in the fabric.
Not all fabric called ‘twill’ is made from the same types of material. Twill can be woven from a range of materials such as cotton, polyester, silk and wool.
Twill is most often used to create harder-wearing textiles. It isn’t a fabric that is usually printed, but it can be woven to create distinctive patterns and use mixed colored yarn to show designs in the weave itself. Twill can also have a double-sided pattern in the weave, depending on how it is woven.
The key characteristics of twill weave are the diagonal patterns created by the woven rows being offset from one another. It comes in a range of weights, thread counts, colours and styles.
You most commonly see twill fabric used to make jeans, tweed, chinos and upholstery and home furnishings (such as tablecloths, curtains, cushions and towels).
How is Twill Fabric Made?
The weft (horizontal) thread is woven over one or more warp (vertical) threads and then under two or more warp threads. The type of twill is determined by how many warp threads the weft passes over and under.
This weaving pattern is what gives twill its characteristic diamond shapes in the weave. The thickness of the yarn is what determines how visible the diagonal weave pattern is.
Twill Weave Vs Plain Weave
Twill is a more tightly-packed weave than plain woven fabrics, which makes it stronger. Plain weave consists of a simple perpendicular pattern in the fabric, whereas twill has a characteristic ribbed diagonal pattern. Twill weave has a darker front and lighter back, as we see with denim.
What Are The Two Types Of Twill Weave
Twill is not a plain weave and as such, has two sides: even or ‘balanced’ and warp-faced twill.
Examples Of Balanced Twills
These twills will have the appearance of being the same on the front and back of the fabric. This is created by the weave being even.
Foulard
Foulard twill is a lightweight silk or silk-cotton mix that has a distinctive soft feel. The weave creates a distinctive repeating block pattern which is said to have originated in the Far East.
Herringbone
Often made with multiple colored yarns, herringbone is a distinctive offset zigzag pattern. Tweed is a fine example of the herringbone weave pattern.
Houndstooth
Created by using a mixture of weave pattern and colored yarns, houndstooth has the appearance of a jagged tooth (hence where it gets its name) repeating through the fabric. This occurs by alternating bands of four dark threads followed by four white threads.
Examples of Warp Faced Twills
Warp faced twill is twill fabric that has most of the yarn on the face, so looks different on one side to the other.
Chino
Usually made of a cotton-synthetic blend, chinos come in a range of colors and are woven using a twill weave. Most often seen in a light brown or khaki color, chinos are lightweight and comfortable for summer wear.
Denim
A densely woven fabric that is commonly seen in jeans and jackets, denim is a strong and durable fabric. Denim is usually dyed on the warp, leaving the weft a much lighter color that gives denim jeans their recognisable appearance.
Drill
Made from cotton, drill is a strong, dense fabric that holds color well making it popular for work uniforms, children’s wear and home furnishings. It has a smoother appearance than denim and is often dyed in bright colours.
Gabardine
An example of a balanced twill that is strong and durable and often made into overcoats and suits, gabardine is made primarily of worsted wool, cotton, silk or a blend of these.
Created by Thomas Burberry in the late 1800s, a worsted wool blend is woven tightly together to become tough and strong. This particular wool when woven has a warp face, placing it in the twill category of fabrics.
You can learn more about this twill fabric type in my article ‘what is gabardine‘.
What Are The Different Twill Fabric Weights?
Twilled fabric comes in a range of weights, ranging from lightweight to heavyweight. Examples of lightweight twill would be cotton twill, which is used for products such as aprons, tote bags, table linens and even pet accessories. Tweed, denim and chino twills are heavier and usually more suited to cooler conditions.
Most twill fabrics fall between 180-280gsm, with twill fabrics such as tweed and gabardine at the heavier end and silk twill being much lighter.
What Is The Difference Between Twill And Denim?
All denim is twill, but not all twill is denim. All types of jeans are made of twill fabric, but denim can also be used to make plain weave garments as well as twill.
So how does twill vs denim play out? Simply put, denim is even more tightly woven than twill. It comes in different weights and is woven with indigo or colored yarn for the warp threads and white yarn for the filling thread.
Which Fibres Are Used To Make Twill?
Twill can be made from synthetic or natural fibres, but is most commonly made from cotton, wool, polyester or silk. The fibres used will affect how the resulting twill fabric behaves, for example how it drapes, the opacity, the warmth and durability.
What Kind Of Fabric Is Cotton Twill?
One type of natural twill is made from cotton. Cotton twill is a great option for year-round clothing such as jeans and chinos. It also works well for home furnishings such as curtains and throws in households with pets or keen cooks, as it doesn’t retain odours!
What Does Polyester Twill Feel Like?
Polyester twill has a silkier feel to it than other twill fabrics. It feels soft against bare skin, doesn’t stretch or shrink easily and is also moisture-wicking.
What Is Silk Twill Used For?
Silk twill is a light-mid weight fabric used most often for shirts, blouses and evening dresses. It has a plain and even weave that means it readily takes dye.
What Is Wool Twill Fabric?
Wool twill is preferred for certain clothing and homeware due to its warmth. The combination of wool’s natural properties along with the characteristics of twill give it a fabulous feel and a warm quality, making it a favorite for winter clothing, cushions and throws. And as with most twill fabrics, it hides stains well and doesn’t crease easily.
How To Identify Twill Fabrics?
It’s not difficult to identify twilled fabric, with its unique diagonal pattern. Most twilled fabrics have one side darker than the other. Twill has a high thread count, meaning that the threads are woven closely and the fabric feels strong.
What Are The Properties Of Twill Fabric?
Twill is a strong and durable fabric because of the tightly packed fibres. It has excellent draping ability which comes from the unique weave. Some twill fabrics are soft (foulard), whereas others have a coarser feel (tweed).
There are key differences in the properties of twill, dependent on the type of fibres used to create it. Originally twill was made using natural fibres such as wool and cotton, but it isn’t unusual now to find a mixture of synthetic fibres such as polyester.
Twill isn’t a stretchy fabric, so wouldn’t work for clothing such as sportswear or comfortable loungewear. Breathability is dependent on the density of the weave. Of course twill can be made from a range of fibres, and the properties of the fibres used will impact on the function of the twill product.
It has a tendency to shrink and fray badly, which would need to be taken into account. Nap consideration is also important when working with some types of twill.
So what is twill fabric good for? It’s very durable and can take a lot of use, which makes it ideal for upholstery and home furnishings. It’s opaque, so it’s a good choice for clothing and homeware such as curtains.
Twill fabrics are also popular with cosplayers, due to the durability and versatility for costume making.
How To Care For Twill
Care instructions for twill will depend on the fibers used to make that twill garment. Some twill fabrics will show wear and tear over time – think about the knees or seat on your favorite jeans. The fabrics can become flattened and take on a slightly shiny appearance with wear.
Can Twill Fabrics Be Washed?
Yes, in most cases. 100% cotton twill can be machine washed or spot cleaned, but note that it typically shrinks by between 2-5% on first wash. Polyester twill will be fine and doesn’t shrink.
Cotton twill can be tumble dried, whereas cotton-polyester mix twill would only manage a low tumble heat.
With wool twill fabrics, it is vital to treat the item as with wool – handle it carefully, wash it cold and lie it flat to dry.
Can Twill Fabric Be Ironed?
The short answer is yes, but you will need to take care based on the fiber content of your specific twill fabric. Cotton twills can be ironed with steam and at a high heat, whereas a blended twill will need a lower heat without steam.
What Is Twill Fabric Good For?
When answering the question ‘What is twill fabric?’, sometimes it’s easier to describe the types of clothing it is used to create. Twill works well for specific clothing types, especially outerwear like pants (trousers), jackets, suits and coats. Different types of twill are better suited to different weather – chino is lightweight and great for summer; tweed is dense and heavy and better suited to wintry conditions.
Bed linen is often made of a twill fabric as it can be made in very high thread counts for more luxurious bedding. You may also see twill as the fabric used in wall hangings and carpets and rugs due to the diamond pattern that the weave creates.
What Are The Benefits Of Using Twill Fabric?
There are several benefits to using twill fabric in your sewing projects:
- It makes great year-round clothing – its heavy weave is good to keep you warm and the closer weave and higher thread count means it can be slightly waterproof.
- It’s drapable, so it works well for bedding, clothes and home furnishings such as curtains.
- The diagonal pattern means the fabric doesn’t show stains or marks. That’s a win for the family home!
- It doesn’t easily crease due to the thickness of the fabric.
- It’s a durable and opaque fabric, making it great for work clothing, curtains and bedding.
How To Sew Twill Fabric
Twill requires strong seams when it is being sewn – use a welt seam or a felled seam for a fully enclosed seam.
For heavy weight twill fabrics, it is advisable to use plain seams with finished fabric edges, which can either be serged or pinked.
When sewing twill fabric, you will need to use sharp needles, with a needle size between 70 and 90 depending on the thickness of the specific twill fabric you are working with.
Final Twill Thoughts
In this article, I’ve tried to cover all the basic aspects that you might need to know about what twill fabric is. Twill is a versatile fabric that can range from soft and light to dense and heavy. It’s important to remember that you will need to research your fabric choice thoroughly before purchase, so make sure you have a look through my other fabric articles!