Fabric is an integral part of making clothing, but within the sewing community there is often confusion between the types of fabric available to us and the fiber content of fabrics. An easy way to explain what I mean is with the following:
My friend Sophie C recently asked me what the best cotton would be to sew a cushion cover. She wanted to freshen her space up. So I asked her: do you mean cotton as a fabric or cotton thread? She meant the latter.
The same scenario played out with my mum whenever she needed me to pick up some ‘wool’. What she meant was ‘can you pick up some yarn for me please’ but what she said is ‘can you pick up some wool for me’.. wool is a fiber while yarn is spun from many different types of fiber.
Anyhow.. if this is something that you’ve struggled with – knowing the difference between one fabric type and another, then this guide will fill in those gaps for you.
Note: Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. This means that I may receive a commission if you make a purchase, at no extra cost to you.
Fabric vs Cloth vs Material
Just another quick note – as this is also important! – the words fabric, cloth and material are used interchangeably in the sewing and fashion design community. So, don’t get your knickers in a twist if I’m using the word fabric and you use the word material. Despite what a tutor at Central Saint Martins once said to me, materials are also used to make clothing (but that’s a story for another day).
Fabric: Fiber, Structure and Type
To understand fabric types we need to know the difference between fabric fiber and fabric structure.
Fabric Fiber
This is the ‘thing’ or the raw materials that fabric is made from. A fiber can be a single fiber or blended, and they can be synthetic fibers, man made fiber or natural fibers. Sometimes you’ll see a list of fabrics as: cotton, polyester, rayon, but these are in fact fibers (natural, man-made, synthetic in that order). I have a full post on the differences between natural, synthetic and man made fibers that you can read for more information.
Fabric Structure
This is how the fabric is constructed. Fabrics are mostly made by weaving and knitting spun fibers or felting natural fibers like wool. Common fabric structures include plain weave, twill weave and satin weave.
Fabric Types
This is where content and structure come together to create the different fabric types. Chiffon and organza are examples of a plain-woven fabric type that can be made from silk or polyester while brocade is another type of fabric that is woven on a loom but using a different method to plain or twill weave.
Fabrics also come in a variety of weights and I will break down the different fabric types using this separator.
Popular Textile Fibers for Clothing
Before we dive into the different types of fabric, let me just quickly share the most popular and commonly used fibers used in the fashion world.
Acetate: a more breathable man-made fiber, used in different fabric types, primarily for linings.
Cotton: harvested from the cotton plant, and used to create natural fabrics using different weave and knit structures. Popular in manufacturing different fabric types for its different properties.
Linen: made from the flax plant, linen fabric is more complex to make than cotton and is often priced accordingly.
Nylon: a synthetic fiber developed in the 1930s, used for manufacturing net and mesh fabrics.
Polyester: another synthetic fiber created from natural gas and petroleum. IT is often used in a blend of different fibers, poly cotton being the most common.
Rayon / Viscose: made from wood pulp, rayon or viscose is used to create semi-synthetic fabrics.
Silk: a fiber that is harvested from the cocoon of the silkworm, it is generally used by fashion designers with a high price point.
Tencel / Lyocell: made from plant cellulose, tencel is similar to rayon / viscose.Wool: animal fibers from sheep, goat, and alpaca to name a few, used to create a variety of wool fabric suitable for cold weather.
Different Types of Fabric
Now that you’re down with the most commonly used textile fibers, grab a cuppa because this is where the good information is – and you can always bookmark this to refer back to at a later date.
Lining Fabrics
When we make clothing, there are some types of clothes which will need lining. Not all fabrics are suitable, so here’s an overview of the different fabrics you could use for lining your garments. Note that the fabric types below would be used in their most lightweight form for lining so that there is less bilk added to the garment.
Charmeuse: with its very shiny right side, charmeuse is a satin weave fabric that almost makes a great lining option for jackets and dresses.
Chiffon: lightweight and translucent, chiffon works well as a lining for summer garments when breathability is important.
Crepe de Chine: can be made from acetate, silk, and makes for a lining that feels quite luxurious.
Gauze: cotton gauze is lightweight and soft and works very well as a lining fabric when in need of more breathable fabrics.
Georgette: a great option for lining dresses and skirts, georgette is almost as translucent as chiffon but with more weight to it.
Habotai: a very lightweight and luxurious silk fabric, silk habotai drapes well and the slight shininess it has allows for easy slipping on and off of garments lines with it, making it a great option for a lining.
Interlock jersey: lighter in weight than other jerseys, it’s a great option for any jersey garment that needs a lining.
Lawn: cotton lawn is a light weight cotton fabric, which can work well as a lining.
Organza: can be made from cotton, silk or polyester, organza is a popular fabric for lining garments as it is lightweight with structure.
Ramie: softer than organza, it’s a nice sheer option for a breathable lining.
Satin: with one side Matt and the other shiny, satins that are lighter in weight are a suitable – and popular – option for linings. They are available in silk, polyester
Twill: due to the weave structure, twill linings that are lightweight make great lining options. Viscose twill is nice and silky which helps with getting a lined jacket on and off effortlessly.
Voile: in cotton, voile is a super lightweight and semi-sheer option for a lining. It works well to line skirts and dresses but also jackets too.
Remember that any fabric that is lighter in weight can work as a lining fabric, just make sure to consider the fabric structure – ie. don’t line a fitted corset with an interlock jersey, which is likely to stretch out and hang below the hem of the corset.
Lightweight Fabrics
Fabrics that are light in weight can be made from natural, synthetic or man-made fibers.
Not all lightweight fabric is sheer, but some of them do provide a translucency. Most lightweight fabrics are used for upper body clothing or lining, but some can be used for bottoms.
Just consider the wear and tear that the fabric will endure when choosing a fabric.
Batiste: a plain weave fabric, lightweight and made from different fibers.
Challis: another plain weave fabric, challis is great for sewing beginners because it is easy to sew. Being lightweight, it is great from lightweight garments!
Chambray: a lovely soft and lightweight fabric often called a lightweight ‘denim’, chambray is constructed with different color weft and warp threads. It is a great option for summer tops and shirts, but can also work well for some lightweight summer shorts too.
Charmeuse: generally made from silk, charmeuse fabric is a satin weave fabric and super drapey. It’s a great option for garments that need a more luxury fabric option.
Chiffon: one of the sheerest fabrics that I have worked with, it is super slippery to boot and not the best for sewing beginners! Chiffon is a plain weave fabric made from natural fibers (silk chiffon) and artificial (poly chiffon).
Cloque: generally made from silk and / or polyester, cloque is a textured type of fabric that works well for tops.
Crepe: I’ve yet to find a crepe fabric that wasn’t drapey and lightweight, whether made from synthetic fibers (rayon/viscose) or natural fibers (silk). Crepe has a slightly textured surface which feels nice on the skin, though I’m not such a fan of it when constructed from polyester. While traditional crepe was a woven fabric type, now it can be woven or knitted.
Eyelet: an embroidered fabric featuring small embroidered holes. This technique can be applied to many different fabric types and fabric weights.
Faille: a fabric which has stripes running through it, not dissimilar to needle-cord
Flannel: often ‘brushed’ flannel is soft against the skin and so very comfortable to wear. It can be made from natural fibers like cotton or wool and man-made materials.
Gauze: used for curtains historically, gauze is a woven fabric made in a variety of fibers, and is now used for more casual garments as well.
Georgette: often confused with chiffon, georgette is also made from silk or polyester but has a more crepe finish than chiffon.
Jersey: one of the most popular fabrics, jerseys are knit fabrics. They can be classified in different ways: t-shirt, interlock and supima are terms frequently used to describe jersey fabric. Light-weight jersey has a lovely drape to it and can be used for everyday tops and t-shirts, but also pajamas and loungewear items.
Lace: a decorative type of fabric made from many different fiber types! Lace has many uses, the choice often depending on the weight and stiffness but it is most frequently used for bridal gowns.
Lawn: a medium crisp fabric type due to the higher thread count used to weave it, and has a fine finish, and yet is still quite sheer and lightweight. I’ve used cotton lawns for summer shirts and tops as well as a pair of my favorite loose fit trousers!
Lamé: lightweight and crisp, lame is a fabric that is fun to use for more dramatic pieces. Generally made from polyester.
Lawn: a lightweight fabric made from cotton, it is always a little on the sheer side but always soft and lovely to wear.
Net: a meshed fabric, created in different weights, and is a popular choice for costumes and hats.
Organdie: made from combed fibers, organdie – also known as organdy – is a tight plain weave fabric often used for interfacings because of its stiffness and sheerness! Organdie is also used as an interfacing fabric in sewing too!
Organza: a plain weave fabric, made from silk (beautiful) or polyester (cheap) yarns, and usually quite translucent. When it is very heavy and almost opaque it is known as ‘gazar’.
Poplin: often made from cotton, poplin is a plain weave fabric that can be slightly translucent. It works very well for tops, shirts and dresses.
Ramie: similar to organza, ramie is a natural fiber and very breathable, making it great for summer clothes!
Rib Knit: 1×1 rib knit fabric is both lightweight and stretchy and works well for tops.
Ripstop: made from polyester, ripstop is a strong fabric while being very lightweight, making it a great option for a light rain jacket.
Shantung: another fabric that is used for bridal and occasion wear, shantung is very similar to taffeta.
Shirtings: while not a ‘name’ of fabric, it is a type which includes others with similar characteristics: chambray, lawn, poplin, voile etc
Taffeta: can be both light and medium weight, taffeta is a woven fabric used when structure is needed.
Tulle: a type of net, made from hexagonal mesh. It is fine and very drapey and there are many types of tulle fabric to choose from!
Voile: another fabric made from either natural or manufactured fibers, voile is semi-crisp.
Bottom Weight Fabrics
Stronger than lightweight fabric, medium- and heavy- weight fabrics are also classified as ‘bottom weight’ fabrics, and this is because they are most suited to items of clothing that covers the bottom half of the body. There are various types of fabrics which are classified as bottom weights, but the main aspect is that they are a more durable fabric suitable for sitting and moving.
Medium Weight Fabrics
Bonded fabrics: created by bonding on fabric to another, so that the resulting fabric is reversible.
Brushed cotton: more structured than a cotton flannel, brushed cotton is great for more structured shirts as well as trousers and lightweight jackets.
Cady: a fabric with a similar texture to crepe, candy is often used for dresses and pants.
Crinoline: similar to organza but much heavier in weight, crinoline can be used to add some drama to a garment. Cutting thin strips and applying them to hems, it works much like horse hair does!
Damask: usually incorporating a motif of some sort, damask fabric is a type of jacquard, and features a reversible design, where one side is shiny and the other matter – but both appear on each side of the fabric! It is quite a structured fabric due to the weaving construction and can be great for those clothing types where minimal stretch or movement is needed.
Double crepe: can be made with natural fibers like wool, and frequently used for tailored garments like blazers and trousers.
Double faced: fabric with a shine on one side and Matt on the reverse, double faced fabrics can contain any type of fiber and work for garments like skirts, trousers, dresses, jackets and more.
Double gauze: heavier in weight than regular gauze, this is the ‘double’ version, currently popular for dresses and blouses as well as baby clothing.
Gabardine: a crisp type of fabric, famously used for trench coats, but frequently used for other clothing types like trousers and skirts.
Felt: no-fray fabrics because the fibers used are felted with water. Fabrics created using the felting technique are made from wool, mohair, cotton, rayon, fur and some synthetic fibers.
Jacquard: a type of weaving that is often used to describe a fabric type, jacquard is reversible in that the design features on both sides. This type of fabric has lots of structure and can be used for more dramatic garments.
Linen: a good linen will be soft to the touch with enough weight to make a pair of pants or a jacket.
Loopback jersey: as the name suggests, this jersey fabric has ‘loops’ on the wrong side and a smooth surface on the right side. It’s great for sweaters, joggers and other loungewear items. It is often referred to as ‘French Terry’ fabric.
Micro Cord: similar to corduroy but with ribs that are much narrower.
Moiré: commonly used in home furnishing, moire fabric is now being used for dresses in the fashion industry. The fabric has an interesting finish which is created using a combination of temperature and pressure when under construction. It is also very structured and so lends itself well to dramatic garments!
Ponte di Roma: a type of knit fabric that is used for sweaters and sweatpants. It usually has some stretch 20-40% – and is super comfortable for clothing.
Powernet: made from nylon and elastane, power net is a super stretchy mesh-type fabric. It is one of several stretch fabrics used for active wear items and lingerie.
Raincoat fabric: fabric that has had a layer of waterproofing applied to it, to make the fabric waterproofed.
Rib Knit: a 2×2 rib knit fabric is heavier in weight than the previously mentioned 1×1 in the lightweight section. While it is as soft to the touch as 1×1, the 2×2 variant has more structure to it.
Sateen: a gorgeous fabric which has a smooth sheen on the ‘right’ side and a matter side on the ‘wrong’ side, sateen is a great choice for dresses and skirts.
Suitings: another catch-all term, fabrics suitable for suitings include: double wool crepes, double faced wools and wool twills.
Zibeline / Mikado silk: a great fabric for garments that need a structured fabric while not being too heavy. Often used for more sculptural wedding gowns
Heavier Weight Fabrics
Canvas: can be medium and heavy weight, canvas is a plain weave fabric that generally has some structure to it, due to how it is woven.
Coatings: fabrics like boucle and tweed.
Denim: again, denim can be light- medium- and heavy-weight, but always constructed with a twill weave.
Quilted: fabric created by sandwiching a wadding between two layers of fabric creates a more heavy weight fabric that can be used for coats, jackets and vests.
Fabrics With Nap or Pile
Fabrics that have any raised surface are often referred to as napped fabric but it’s important to note that nap and pile in sewing are two different things. Sewing with piled fabrics means that you need to cut your sewing patterns in grain with the nap!
Don’t be like a fellow student of mine when I was still in fashion school – they cut the back of a faux fur jacket the wrong way, and it was only upon sewing the front sections to the back that the mistake was noticed!
Chenille: created by punching tuffs through existing fabric. The tufts can be short or longer. Imagine the tufts created similar to how a punch needle works!
Corduroy: looks like a ribbed fabric, with vertical stripes but is in fact a pile fabric.
Faux fur: Another popular pile fabric is faux fur, which is quite often referred to as a deep pile fabric due to the longer lengths of the pile. If you have an interest in faux fur, you might enjoy my recent article looking at the ethics and sustainability of faux fur vs real fur.
Fleece: Made with wool or hair, fleece is one of those fabrics that gives me the heebie-jeebies! It’s usually a very soft fabric with a pile.
Terry: Terry fabric is made with uncut loops. There is no nap to the fabric and is used for towels, robes and more.
Velvet / velour: Velvet fabrics (velvet, velour, velveteen) have a short pile. Personal note: I hate velvet. The photo above is a paid stock image because I would never have velvet in my stash.
You can also learn more about the different types of velvet and their uses here!
Animal Hides
While not a fabric per se, animal hides are often used in sewing clothing. Commonly used include lamb nappa, cow and pig skins.
They can also have a range of techniques applied to them, such as foiled and embossed.
Hopefully this was helpful to you, but if you do have any follow up questions please do drop them in the comments, as I’d be happy to answer any that come up.
And if you’d like to check out printed resources, these are some of the best books on fabric types used in fashion that I can recommend from my personal experience:
- Fabric sewing guide – my absolute favorite since my fashion school days, but can be hard to find
- Fashion designer’s textile directory – perfect for fashion design students
- The swatch book – contains fabric swatches so you can get a better understand of the fabrics feel and texture
- Mood guide to fabric and fashion – who hasn’t heard of Mood fabrics? This is their guide to fabrics!
- Textile directory – an amazing resource at a more affordable price point
Rhoda
Thursday 20th of April 2023
I'm interested to learn and download . good work.
NAET
Sunday 9th of April 2023
This is awesome. I have learned so much about fabrics and types. And of course, their uses. Thanks Eve
Eve Tokens
Tuesday 18th of April 2023
You're very welcome Naet, I'm so happy to hear it was helpful to you! :)
Monic Xpranza
Thursday 30th of March 2023
Thank you Eve, this was extensive and really helpful.
Debbie
Monday 27th of February 2023
Hi. I’m looking for a pro cool mesh fabric that I can use to make a blanket to cover a sheep to protect its wool. Can you tell me what might be best?
Patsy Haskins
Saturday 19th of November 2022
I make wig grips and could not find answers about working with stretch velvet and putting 2 pieces together and how to keep the velvet from walking while I sewed. I had to figure a lot out on my own from just experimenting with this mind of its own fabric. Do you have a guide on sewing different fabrics do's and dont's? I use a stretch needle. Would you say that is the best for spandex type velvet? Other tips you can share...thank You...Patsy Haskins
Eve Tokens
Sunday 20th of November 2022
Hi Patsy! First up thanks for your comment. I'm working on a guide for fabric sewing do's and don'ts but it won't be available until the new year. In the meantime, regarding your stretch velvet - is it a true woven velvet or a knitted variety? The tips I can give will depend on which. If it is a woven velvet with small amount of spandex in the weft, then you'd want to use a universal needle rather than a ball point and a roller foot rather than a standard presser foot, to help the two layers of fabric to be guided through at the same speed. And if your sewing machine allows for it, you could also modify the amount of pressure your presser foot had as well, which will stop one layer from moving faster than the other.