Different Types of Fabrics (A Guide for Those Who Sew)
I see it again and again. Confusion in the sewing community between fabric types and fiber types. Someone will ask if cotton is a suitable fabric for a specific pattern, when what they should be asking is whether ‘cotton poplin’ or ‘cotton jersey’ suitable.
That’s because cotton is a fiber (I have a great blog post explaining how cotton fiber is turned into fabric) and poplin is a type of fabric.
A couple years ago my friend Sophie asked me what the best cotton would be to sew a cushion cover. She wanted to freshen her space up. So, I asked her: do you mean cotton as a fabric or cotton thread? She meant the latter.
The same scenario played out with my mum whenever she needed me to pick up some ‘wool’. What she meant was ‘can you pick up some yarn for me please’ but what she said is ‘can you pick up some wool for me’. Wool is a fiber while yarn is spun from many different types of fiber.
Both instances reinforced that there is confusion over fabric and fiber types.
So, with this in mind I’m going to do my best to share photos of different types of fabric as well as a paragraph about each one. I’ll also link each type to its own blog post where one exists, if you want to learn more about it.
Note: Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. This means that I may receive a commission if you make a purchase, at no extra cost to you.
Different Fabric Types
Where I have them, I’ll also include photos to accompany the fabric information, and will try to update as many as possible with new photos moving forwards.
Batiste
Batiste is a plain weave fabric. It’s lightweight and made from different fibers.
Bonded Fabrics
Created by bonding on fabric to another, so that the resulting fabric is reversible. This can be achieved at home with this technique!
Boucle
A textured fabric that is somewhat loosely woven, boucle tends to fray a LOT when cut into.
It’s a great option for jackets, trousers, skirts and dresses.
Brushed Cotton
More structured than a cotton flannel, brushed cotton is great for more structured shirts as well as trousers and lightweight jackets. I like to use brushed cotton for winter time pajamas.
Cady
A fabric with a similar texture to crepe, cady is often used for dresses and pants.
Canvas
While it can be medium and heavy weight, canvas is a plain weave fabric that generally has some structure to it, due to how it is woven.
Challis
Another plain weave fabric, challis is great for sewing beginners because it is easy to sew. Being lightweight, it is great from lightweight garments!
Chambray
A lovely soft and lightweight fabric often called a lightweight ‘denim’, chambray is constructed with different color weft and warp threads.
It is a great option for summer tops and shirts but can also work well for some lightweight summer shorts too.
Charmeuse
Charmeuse is generally made from silk; charmeuse fabric is a satin weave fabric and super drapey.
It’s a great option for garments that need a more luxury fabric option.
Chenille
Chenille is created by punching tuffs through existing fabric. The tufts can be short or longer. Imagine the tufts created similar to how a punch needle works!
Chiffon
One of the sheerest fabrics that I have worked with, it is super slippery to boot and not the best for sewing beginners!
Chiffon is a plain weave fabric made from natural fibers (silk chiffon) and artificial (poly chiffon).
Cloque
Cloque is made from silk and / or polyester and is a textured type of fabric that works well for tops.
I have the above piece of cloque fabric in my stash, and plan to use it this summer!
Corduroy
Corduroy looks like a ribbed fabric, with vertical stripes but is in fact a pile fabric. There are different types of corduroy available, but to use it, you need to be on board with its texture!
Crepe
I’ve yet to find a crepe fabric that wasn’t drapey and lightweight, whether made from synthetic fibers (rayon/viscose) or natural fibers (silk).
Crepe has a slightly textured surface which feels nice on the skin, though I’m not such a fan of it when constructed from polyester.
While traditional crepe was a woven fabric type, now it can be woven or knitted.
Crinoline
Like organza but much heavier in weight, crinoline can be used to add some drama to a garment. Cutting thin strips and applying them to hems, it works much like horsehair does!
Damask
Usually incorporating a motif of some sort, damask fabric is a type of jacquard, and features a reversible design, where one side is shiny and the other matter – but both appear on each side of the fabric!
It is quite a structured fabric due to the weaving construction and can be great for those clothing types where minimal stretch or movement is needed.
Double Gauze
Heavier in weight than regular gauze fabric, double gauze is the ‘double’ version, currently popular for dresses and blouses as well as baby clothing.
It’s made from two layers of gauze fabric, hence its name.
Denim
Another fabric that can be light- medium- or heavy-weight, denim is always constructed with a twill weave.
Traditionally is used to be blue in color, though denim is now made in more colors than I can keep track of. In fact, I almost bought some hot pink denim at a recent fabric fair!
Denim’s unique appearance is created by using two different colored threads: traditionally, this was a combination of white and blue, which is why you see a white and blue effect in the photo.
Double Crepe
Double crepe can be made with natural fibers like wool, and is frequently used for tailored garments like blazers and trousers.
Double Faced
A fabric with a shine on one side and Matt on the reverse, double faced fabrics can contain any type of fiber and work for garments like skirts, trousers, dresses, jackets and more.
Eyelet / Broderie Anglaise
This is an embroidered fabric featuring small embroidered holes. This technique can be applied to many different fabric types and fabric weights.
I saw a stunning colourful version at a recent fabric fair.
Faille
Faille is a fabric which has stripes running through it, not dissimilar to needle-cord, except without the texture.
It is a tightly woven type of fabric providing plenty of structure. Learn more about using faille fabric here!
Faux Fur
Another popular pile fabric is faux fur, which is quite often referred to as a deep pile fabric due to the longer lengths of the pile. If you have an interest in faux fur, you might enjoy my recent article looking at the ethics and sustainability of faux fur vs real fur.
Felt
Felt is one of the best no-fray fabrics because the fibers used are felted with water.
Fabrics created using the felting technique are made from wool, mohair, cotton, rayon, fur and some synthetic fibers.
Flannel
Often ‘brushed’ flannel is soft against the skin and so very comfortable to wear. It can be made from natural fibers like cotton or wool and man-made materials.
Fleece
Made with wool or hair, fleece is one of those fabrics that gives me the heebie-jeebies! It’s usually a very soft fabric with a pile.
French Terry
Smooth on one side, and with loop on the reverse, French Terry is a popular fabric for sportswear style garments or athleisure.
Gabardine
Gabardine is a crisp type of fabric, famously used for trench coats, but frequently used for other clothing types like trousers and skirts.
There’s a lot of history behind gabardine in fashion if you’re interested!
Georgette
Often confused with chiffon, georgette is also made from silk or polyester but has a more crepe finish than chiffon.
Gauze
Used for curtains historically, gauze is a woven fabric made in a variety of fibers, and is now used for more casual garments as well.
Jacquard
A weaving technique that is often used to describe a fabric type, jacquard is reversible in that the design features on both sides.
It can be found as a medium weight or heavy weight fabric and while I do use jacquards for clothing, many use them for interior furnishing and home deco projects.
This type of fabric has lots of structure and can be used for more dramatic garments.
Jersey
One of the most popular fabrics, jerseys are knit fabrics. They can be classified in different ways:
- T-shirt
- Interlock
- Supima
All three are terms frequently used to describe jersey fabric.
Light-weight jersey has a lovely drape to it and can be used for everyday tops and t-shirts, but also pajamas and loungewear items.
Lace
A decorative type of fabric made from many different fiber types!
Lace has many uses, the choice often depending on the weight and stiffness but it is most frequently used for bridal gowns.
Lawn
A medium crisp fabric type due to the higher thread count used to weave it, and has a fine finish, and yet is still quite sheer and lightweight.
I’ve used cotton lawns for summer shirts and tops as well as a pair of my favorite loose fit trousers!
Lamé
Lightweight and crisp, lame is a fabric that is fun to use for more dramatic pieces. Generally made from polyester.
Linen
A good linen will be soft to the touch with enough weight to make a pair of pants or a jacket.
Be aware that some online locations will often state that a fabric is linen, but they’re selling it as a ‘type’ rather than the actual fiber content. I’ve ended up with rayon linen and polyester linen in my fabric stash from this mistake.
Net
A meshed fabric, created in different weights, and is a popular choice for costumes and hats.
You can also get power net, which has the addition of a stretch factor and allows for greater stretch and recovery.
Loopback Jersey
As the name suggests, this jersey fabric has ‘loops’ on the wrong side and a smooth surface on the right side. It’s great for sweaters, joggers and other loungewear items. It is often referred to as ‘French Terry’ fabric (Photo further up).
Micro Cord
Micro cord (sometimes called needlecord) is similar to corduroy but the ribs that are much narrower.
Moiré
Commonly used in home furnishing, moire fabric is now being used for dresses in the fashion industry. The fabric has an interesting finish which is created using a combination of temperature and pressure when under construction. It is also very structured and so lends itself well to dramatic garments!
Organdie
Made from combed fibers, organdie – also known as organdy – is a tight plain weave fabric often used for interfacings because of its stiffness and sheerness! Organdie is also used as an interfacing fabric in sewing too!
Organza
A plain weave fabric, made from silk (beautiful) or polyester (cheap) yarns, and usually quite translucent. When it is very heavy and almost opaque it is known as ‘gazar’.
In the above photo, the translucent fabric is organza.
Powernet
Made from nylon and elastane, power net is a super stretchy mesh-type fabric. It is one of several stretch fabrics used for active wear items and lingerie.
Ponte di Roma
A type of knit fabric that is used for sweaters and sweatpants. It usually has some stretch 20-40% – and is super comfortable for clothing.
Poplin
Often made from cotton, poplin is a plain weave fabric that can be slightly translucent. It works very well for tops, shirts and dresses.
Raincoat Fabric
Fabric that has had a layer of waterproofing applied to it, to make the fabric waterproofed.
Rib Knit
1×1 rib knit fabric is both lightweight and stretchy and works well for tops. A 2×2 rib knit fabric is heavier in weight.
While it is as soft to the touch as 1×1, the 2×2 variant has more structure to it.
Ramie
Similar to organza, ramie is a natural fiber and very breathable, making it great for summer clothes!
Ripstop
Made from polyester, ripstop is a strong fabric while being very lightweight, making it a great option for a light rain jacket.
I used a gorgeous headstock Liberty ripstop in my Rowan Tool Roll.
Sateen
A gorgeous fabric which has a smooth sheen on the ‘right’ side and a more matte side on the ‘wrong’ side.
Sateen is a great choice for dresses and skirts.
Shantung
Another fabric that is used for bridal and occasion wear, shantung is very similar to taffeta.
Shirting
While not a ‘name’ of fabric, it is a type which includes others with similar characteristics:
- Chambray
- Lawn
- Poplin
- Voile etc
I used the lovely shirting opposite for a beautiful shirt project recently.
Taffeta
Taffeta can be both light and medium weight, and is a woven fabric used when structure is needed.
Terry
Terry fabric is made with uncut loops. There is no nap to the fabric and is used for towels, robes and more.
Tulle
A type of net, made from hexagonal mesh. It is fine and very drapey and there are many types of tulle fabric to choose from!
You can also get embellished tulle. I have several that have a slight sparkle on from glitter but also a more heavily embellished tulle with sequins on.
Velour / Velvet
Velvet fabrics (velvet, velour, velveteen) have a short pile. Personal note: I hate velvet. The photo above is a paid stock image because I would never have velvet in my stash.
You can also learn more about the different types of velvet and their uses here!
Voile
Another fabric made from either natural or manufactured fibers, voile is semi-crisp.
Zibeline / Mikado Silk
A great fabric for garments that need a structured fabric while not being too heavy. Often used for more sculptural wedding gowns
Hopefully this was helpful to you, but if you do have any follow up questions please do drop them in the comments, as I’d be happy to answer any that come up.
And if you’d like to check out printed resources, these are some of the best books on fabric types used in fashion that I can recommend from my personal experience:
- Fabric sewing guide – my absolute favorite since my fashion school days, but can be hard to find
- Fashion designer’s textile directory – perfect for fashion design students
- The swatch book – contains fabric swatches so you can get a better understand of the fabrics feel and texture
- Mood guide to fabric and fashion – who hasn’t heard of Mood fabrics? This is their guide to fabrics!
- Textile directory – an amazing resource at a more affordable price point
Thank you Eve i knew a bit but this has helped and i will refer back to it when needed.
Awesome – glad it was helpful Lynne! 🙂
I really enjoyed this blog probably my favourite so far thanks.
Ah, thanks Krishna! I’ve just published another post on knit fabric types – do feel free to take a look and let me know if that’s helpful!
Thank u so much dear that I got some knowledge about the fabric. This thing will help me out to understand what kind of fabric it is.
Very happy to have helped Christabell! 🙂
Very knowledgeable on your topic, well explained with accompanying pictures. Thank you for sharing
Just discovered your blog, it’s a priceless gem.
Insightful post! Really enjoyed reading it (x2 aha).
Just a side note about the mention of ‘the strongest type of fabric’: not that I am an expert but I believe that hemp is the strongest fabric existing on Earth.
Therefore this fabric is inexistent in your blog: Do you have some insights about it or you are not a fan of this tellurian fabric completely?
Thank you
Hi Gilliane! Thank you for such a lovely comment! While not the strongest fabric on earth, hemp IS one of the strongest natural fibres! (I have a post about the different fibre types that you may also find interesting). That said, while I hadn’t forgotten to mention hemp in the article (hemp is very similar to linen after all) – I have now added it in (making it 6 rather than 5 popular fibres!!) in case there are other readers like yourself interested in hemp fabric!
Hemp is considered more absorbent and resistant to mildew compared to linen, and of course it is more sustainable too in terms of growing / harvesting, but hemp is often more expensive to buy than linen fabrics, which puts people off.
If you’re planning on sewing with hemp, it makes a great fabric for clothing items – either lined or unlined, as the fabric itself is quite comfortable to wear once is has been washed / softened. And of course, always test the tools you mark and sew with on a scrap to see how the hemp you’re using reacts!
Phew.. think that’s all. thank you again Gilliane for your comment! Best, Eve
Have to learn and improve skill of fabric and it will help in future…
Thank you Eve for this helpful post. I want my daughter to learn fashion but in Nigeria. Can you recommend a good fashion school in Nigeria?
Hi Tayo! I’m afraid I do not know of any fashion schools in Nigeria. If I do hear of anything in the future, I’ll let you know!
I make wig grips and could not find answers about working with stretch velvet and putting 2 pieces together and how to keep the velvet from walking while I sewed. I had to figure a lot out on my own from just experimenting with this mind of its own fabric. Do you have a guide on sewing different fabrics do’s and dont’s? I use a stretch needle. Would you say that is the best for spandex type velvet? Other tips you can share…thank You…Patsy Haskins
Hi Patsy! First up thanks for your comment. I’m working on a guide for fabric sewing do’s and don’ts but it won’t be available until the new year. In the meantime, regarding your stretch velvet – is it a true woven velvet or a knitted variety? The tips I can give will depend on which. If it is a woven velvet with small amount of spandex in the weft, then you’d want to use a universal needle rather than a ball point and a roller foot rather than a standard presser foot, to help the two layers of fabric to be guided through at the same speed. And if your sewing machine allows for it, you could also modify the amount of pressure your presser foot had as well, which will stop one layer from moving faster than the other.
Hi. I’m looking for a pro cool mesh fabric that I can use to make a blanket to cover a sheep to protect its wool. Can you tell me what might be best?
Thank you Eve, this was extensive and really helpful.
This is awesome. I have learned so much about fabrics and types. And of course, their uses. Thanks Eve
You’re very welcome Naet, I’m so happy to hear it was helpful to you! 🙂
I’m interested to learn and download . good work.