The use of fabrics with a checkered pattern has been popular for a long time, but as they’re used more frequently for home sewing and fashion fabrics I thought we could do a deep dive on the most popular checks used in fabric now.
One great aspect of non-solid fabrics is the pattern matching that comes with them – it’s like putting puzzle pieces together to get the patterns to line up nicely.
In fact, that is what inspired this article as I recently pattern matched some striped fabric and thought about how much trickier it would have been with fabric that had a checkered pattern. We’ll have to see if I give it a go, but for now, let’s dig into some history and the different types of checkered patterns!
A Brief History Of The Checkered Pattern
The checkered pattern has been around for quite some time now. It was traditionally associated with Scotland, and the classic pattern has proven its timeless charm as it is still considered a favorite in the fashion industry several centuries later.
Introduced in 16th century Scotland, check, or tartan, was used by various Scottish clans to display which region they were from and is quite a versatile design with an almost infinite number of color and fabric combinations.
Scotland’s traditional garment is a kilt and in 1822, the tartan kilt became the official item of clothing for official occasions. British and American manufacturers then adopted the checkered pattern later on in the 1800s, and this became known as the buffalo plaid.
Buffalo plaid utilizes the same check pattern but exclusively uses red and black colors and became iconic in America, being often linked with lumberjacks. By the 1970s, the check pattern expanded its application into interior design, with furniture and wallpapers incorporating the iconic pattern too.
Checkered patterns are still as relevant today as they were a couple of centuries ago, if not more so. This proves that specific designs, like the check pattern, are so unique that it transcends eras and becomes a timeless classic. Kind of like the Burberry plaid if you’ve ever seen it?
How Are Checkered Patterns Created?
Any close inspection of a fabric that incorporates a check or plaid pattern will illuminate the meticulous process involved in creating the design. This is because creating a check pattern really does require skill and patience, no matter what technique is used. Below are the methods used in making a classic plaid.
Weaving
The process for weaving tartan fabrics has remained virtually unchanged throughout the centuries. It is a painstaking process that demands a high level of attention to detail – trust me, I have attempted to weave my own on a rigid heddle loom, and have never managed anything like the traditional plaids! Let me run you through an overview of the weaving process!
The first step is to create a design for your checkered pattern. This can be done on paper or digitally.
You’ll want to consider the:
- Number of colors
- Width of the stripes
- Intersection of the stripes
Next you’ll want to measure out the yarns needed. You’ll need enough for the length you want to weave – these will be your warps – as well as the various yarns needed for the wefts.
Now you need to prepare your loom. For me, this is an Ashford rigid heddle loom, but there are many different types of loom that you can use to weave your own checkered pattern!
You’ll need to set out the warp threads based upon the colors you’ve chosen and the widths of the stripes that will run the length of the fabric.
Thread these warp threads through the reed you’ve chosen to use until you have all the warp threads in place.
Next we need to load the shuttles. Depending on how intricate your design is you may need only two or three but you may also need many more. Use the design you created to guide you.
With a standard plaid checkered pattern you would weave a number of picks to create a width of one color and then swap shuttles to weave the same number of picks in your second color. This would be a balanced weave.
If you were introducing additional colors, you’d need more variety in your warps and wefts!
That’s the simple overview on weaving plaids, but you can also buy (or make) printed checkered fabrics!
Printing
A simpler alternative to creating a check pattern is via printing. This method – in my opinion – lacks the beauty of weaving checkered fabrics, but it is faster and therefore significantly cheaper.
To do this yourself you’ll again need to create a suitable design, and then use a digital design software to create the checkered pattern at the size and scale needle for a repeatable print pattern.
I use Adobe Illustrator for my digital print designs unless there is an element of photography included, in which case I use Adobe Photoshop. This is how I was taught at fashion school.
Types Of Checkered Pattern
Now that you know a little bit about the history of checks and how they’re created, let’s have a look at the different types of checkered patterns!
At first glance – especially from a distance – you may think that they all feature the same signature checkerboard design. On closer inspection however, you’ll notice that there are different checkered patterns, with each having its own little twist on the classic Scottish version.
Argyle
The argyle checkered pattern is one of the most common and popular in the fashion industry. This type of check design uses diagonal stripes of various colors to create prominent diamond shapes on the fabric. Argyle is popular in sweaters, dresses, and socks.
Buffalo
Another check pattern introduced in the United States is the buffalo plaid pattern, which is generally associated with lumberjack attire. Its distinct red and black plaid design remains popular today but I mocked it up in my brand orange color for the fun.
Checkerboard
The name says it all. This is quite the basic check pattern that uses the checkerboard design and uses two contrasting colors. Most fabrics that feature the checkerboard pattern are usually printed rather than woven.
Dupplin
The dupplin check pattern is a more complicated checkered pattern design as it features the windowpane check overlaid on top of a different type of check pattern, usually a houndstooth.
Gingham
This one is a classic American check pattern that features different-sized squares. The gingham pattern barreled into the scene during the cotton industry boom in the United States. It is still a popular check pattern that embodies a cheerful vibe, and has seen a bit of a resurgence with the recent popularity of cottage core style.
Glen check
Another complex check variation, the Glen check or Glen plaid, features a “sett” (a section of the check pattern) that contains several smaller squares. Again, it is a complicated and fancy design that mainly uses muted colors like black, white, and gray.
Graph check
A graph check pattern looks pretty much like graph paper with its small windowpane plaid design. However, the lines are once again quite subtle and nearly transparent.
The graph check pattern is the newest addition and is a relatively modern design often incorporated in snazzy business suits.
Houndstooth
A houndstooth check pattern is one of the more popular variations at the moment, and it gets its name from the jagged canine teeth design. You can find the houndstooth check pattern used in garments such as wool suits, skirts and jackets.
Ichimatsu
The Ichimatsu check pattern was made famous by a Japanese Kabuki actor (Japanese theater, basically) and frequently incorporated black and green colors. The Ichimatsu pattern is commonly associated with prosperity nowadays.
Pin check
You will definitely need to look closer to determine if it uses the pin-check pattern. As the name implies, this check pattern type features tiny squares almost the size of a pinhead. The intricate and detailed design is a popular choice for suits.
Shepherd’s Check
The shepherd’s check pattern features a distinctive checkerboard look in design and color, as this check pattern variation typically uses the black and white motif. The difference here is that the squares in the shepherd’s check are smaller than in other variations.
Tattersall Check
This type of check pattern has similarities with the windowpane except that it uses two thin squares and superimposes them on top of each other.
You can find tattersall check designs in classic black and white or in relaxing pastel colors. This check pattern variant gives off that 70s and 80s vibe.
Windowpane
The windowpane pattern has quite a different look from most check patterns but still falls into the category. It exudes an old-fashioned windowpane appearance with its thinner and subtler lines. It is also a popular design in business suits.
I think that a linen blazer made with a windowpane pattern would be rather lovely for the summer months and add a little bit of quirky to any outfit!
This has now inspired me to drag out my fabric stash to see what checkered patterns I have tucked away. I know there won’t be a big amount of any type as I’ve been holding back on buying new fabrics for a while now. But that’s ok… I may just have another go at weaving my own!