Checkered Pattern Fabrics – And Why They’re Great For Garment Sewing

Checkered patterns are perfect for garment sewing. They can hide a multitude of sins, and can be used in interesting ways for a creative me-made outfit.

And while I wouldn’t fill my closet with too many checkered patterns, having some can be a great way to liven up favorite outfits.

One great aspect of non-solid fabrics is the pattern matching that comes with them – it’s like putting puzzle pieces together to get the patterns to line up nicely, and if you’ve done pattern matching before, you know the thrill of it working out perfectly!

In fact, that is what inspired this blog post as I recently pattern matched some striped fabric and thought about how much trickier it would have been with fabric that had a checkered pattern.

A Checkered Past

Checkered patterns were traditionally associated with Scotland, and the classic pattern has maintained its status of being a favorite in the fashion industry several centuries later.

Introduced in 16th century Scotland, check, or tartan, was – still is! – used by different Scottish clans to display which region they are from. Tartan is also a versatile design with an almost infinite number of color and fabric combinations.

I had great fun mocking some up on my computer’s design program (see below)!

Most people know that Scotland’s traditional garment is a kilt and in 1822, tartan kilts became the official item of clothing for official occasions. British and American manufacturers then adopted the checkered pattern in the late 1800s, and this became known as the ‘buffalo plaid’.

Buffalo plaid utilizes the same check pattern but only uses red and black colors. It became iconic in America often linked with lumberjacks. By the 1970s, check pattern expanded its application into interior design, with furniture and wallpapers incorporating the iconic pattern too.

Checkered patterns are still as relevant today as they were a couple of centuries ago, if not more so. This proves that specific designs are so unique that they transcend eras and can become a timeless classic. Kind of like the Burberry plaid if you’ve ever seen it?

Creating Checkered Patterns

Close inspection of a check or plaid fabric that has been woven will highlight the meticulous process involved in creating the design. This is because creating a check pattern requires skill and patience, no matter what technique is used. Below are the two methods used in making a classic plaid.

Weaving

The process for weaving tartan fabrics has remained almost unchanged over the centuries since its first creation.

It is a painstaking process and it demands a high level of attention to detail – trust me, I have attempted to weave my own on a rigid heddle loom, and have never managed anything like the traditional plaids! Let me run you through an overview of the weaving process.

The first step is to create a design for your checkered pattern. This can be done on paper or digitally.

Then you need to locate the yarns, prepare the loom, and get weaving. I do not jest when I say it’s a lengthy process. Of course, most mills have automated looms, but there are handmade checked fabrics made around the world still.

If you’re interested, I can write up the process of weaving a plaid on my rigid heddle loom? Let me know in the comments below.

Printing

A simpler alternative to creating a check pattern is via printing. This method – in my opinion – lacks the beauty of weaving checkered fabrics, but it is faster and therefore significantly cheaper.

To do this yourself you’ll again need to create a suitable design, and then use a digital design software to create the checkered pattern at the size and scale needle for a repeatable print pattern.

I use Adobe Illustrator for my digital print designs unless there is an element of photography included, in which case I use Adobe Photoshop. This is how I was taught at fashion school.

Types Of Checkered Pattern

At first glance – especially from a distance – you may think that all checkered patterns feature the same signature checkerboard design. On closer inspection you’ll notice that there are different checkered patterns, with each having its own little twist on the classic Scottish version.

Note that all of the digital drawing below are my own!

Argyle

Argyle is one of the most common and popular in the fashion industry. This type of check design uses diagonal stripes of various colors to create prominent diamond shapes on the fabric.

Argyle is popular in sweaters, dresses, and socks.

Buffalo

Another check pattern introduced in the United States is the buffalo plaid pattern, which is generally associated with lumberjack attire.

Its distinct red and black plaid design remains popular today but I mocked it up in my brand orange color for fun.

Checkerboard

The name says it all. This is quite the basic check pattern that uses the checkerboard design and uses two contrasting colors.

Most fabrics that feature the checkerboard pattern are usually printed rather than woven.

Dupplin

The dupplin check pattern is a more complicated checkered pattern design as it features the windowpane check overlaid on top of a different type of check pattern, usually a houndstooth. I didn’t mock this one up, but I probably should…

Gingham

This one is a classic American check pattern that features different-sized squares. Gingham as a pattern barreled its way into the scene during the cotton industry boom in the United States.

It is still a popular check pattern with a cheerful vibe, and has seen a bit of a resurgence with the recent popularity of cottage core style.

Glen check

Another complex check variation, the Glen check or Glen plaid, features a “sett” (a section of the check pattern) that contains several smaller squares.

Again, it is a complicated and fancy design that mainly uses muted colors like black, white, and gray, and why I did not mock it up!

Graph check

A graph check pattern looks pretty much like graph paper with its small windowpane plaid design. However, the lines are once again quite subtle and nearly transparent.

It is a relatively modern design often incorporated in snazzy business suits.

Houndstooth

Houndstooth check patterns are one of the more popular variations, and it gets its name from the jagged canine teeth design.

You’ll spot houndstooth check patterns used in garments such as wool suits, skirts and jackets, for a more traditional look.

Ichimatsu

Ichimatsu check pattern was made famous by a Japanese Kabuki actor (Japanese theater, basically) and frequently incorporated black and green colors. The Ichimatsu pattern is commonly associated with prosperity nowadays.

Shepherd’s Check

Shepherd’s check features a distinctive checkerboard look in design and color, as this check pattern variation typically uses the black and white motif. The difference here is that the squares in the shepherd’s check are smaller than in other variations.

Tattersall Check

This type of check pattern has similarities with the windowpane except that it uses two thin squares and superimposes them on top of each other.

You can find tattersall check designs in classic black and white or in relaxing pastel colors. This check pattern variant gives off that 70s and 80s vibe.

Windowpane

The windowpane pattern has quite a different look from most check patterns but still falls into the category. It has an old-fashioned windowpane appearance with its thinner and subtler lines. It is also a popular design in business suits.

Using Checkered Fabrics

There are so many possibilities for using checkered fabrics within our sewing projects. You can use one for an entire garment, cut and sew a variety of patterns together, or just use one as a small design detail for pockets, sleeves or collars. Design options are endless!

In fact, I remember my ‘pre-collection’ at fashion school incorporated a lot of different checkered prints. I had a long sculptural dress in a large navy window pane check, and I created the biggest ruffle collar in a small orange gingham. It was quite a sight, and if I can find photos (unlikely) I’ll be sure to add one in!

In the heat we’re currently struggling with, I think that a linen blazer made with a windowpane pattern – maybe a pale sage green and white? – would be rather lovely for evenings during the summer months and add a little bit of quirkiness to any outfit!

This has now inspired me to drag out my fabric stash to see what checkered patterns I have tucked away. I know there won’t be a big amount of any type as I’ve been holding back on buying new fabrics for a while now. But that’s ok… I may just have another go at weaving my own!

Do you have a favorite checkered fabric style? Would you ever try to create your own? And what would you use a checkered pattern fabric for if you had some?

If you enjoyed this and want to read more, I have some great posts on other fabric types. Five cottons for sewing shirts is a very new one, but if you’re thinking about project ideas for the fall, you might want to look at some fluffy fabric types for some cozy warmth instead!

Did you know I have a sewing journal that you can use to help you plan out your sewing projects? It can be printed at home or used in your favorite digital note taking app!