What Are The Different Types Of Buttons Used In Sewing?

I’ve covered clothes fastenings used in sewing which has been popular with my readers for years, so I thought it was time to dive deeper into the buttons which are used in sewing and fashion. 

I’m going to cover the different types of buttons, when they were invented, the materials used to create them and different ways to use them too.

I have a previous article on button sizes including a printable button size chart, so won’t be covering that here.

Ready? Let’s go!

When Were Buttons Invented?

Buttons have been around for an astonishingly long time. To give you an idea, the oldest known button to be discovered is dated around 5,000 years old in the Mohenjo-daro region in the Indus Valley, which is now known as Pakistan. These buttons are believed to be more of a decorative or ornamental accessory rather than an essential fastener that joins fabrics. 

Who Invented Buttons?

The Indus Valley civilization is credited with being the first to use buttons. However, as stated previously, the Indus Valley civilization primarily used the first buttons as ornamental accessories that show a person’s social status. The buttons that this civilization used were generally made from curved shells.

While there is no one person or company to invent the modern day version of the button, when we look beyond the Indus Valley civilization, we discover that the UK the company Firmin & Sons have been making buttons since 1655 and in the US it’s the Waterbury Button Company who originated in 1812.

Buttons Rise In Popularity

On the other hand, buttonholes we see on clothes – which allow for buttons to be put through – first appeared in 13th century Germany, although most experts believe that the Persians were the first to apply this fastening method to garments.

The button and buttonhole fastening feature started becoming a standard fixture in clothing during the 13th and 14th centuries, especially in Europe.

By the turn of the 16th century, button maker guilds started to spread across France and it is they that regulated the production of buttons and created laws regarding their application. Strangely enough, buttons were still considered a sign of wealth and social status, which meant that people from the lower class were forbidden to wear clothing with an exceptionally high amount of buttons. 

Buttons As A Standard Clothing Fastener

It wasn’t until the Industrial Revolution of the 18th century that buttons became more accessible to the masses. During this scientific and technological boom, the use of buttons was not restricted to social standing, and mass-production of this clothes fastening became considerably cheaper. 

By the 20th century, the production of buttons became even more inexpensive with the introduction of plastic material. At this point, different types of buttons utilize various materials, with plastic becoming the most prevalent due to its cheap production cost.  

What Materials Are Used To Make Buttons?

Buttons are incredibly versatile in regards to their structure. Throughout its history, the button has utilized almost every viable material under the sun. Below are all the materials that the button has incorporated into its construction – this is a little more detailed so hopefully you enjoy it!

Metal

Buttons have been made from metal for many years, and the popular choices over those years have been:

• Aluminum
• Brass
• Copper
• Iron
• Stainless steel
• Zinc alloy

Metal button types were prevalent during 18th century Europe. Specifically, pewter, a common metal at the time, was generally used to make stamped or molded metal buttons – it is these that I often see in museums.

Ornamental metal buttons are also made from calamine brass and are often found in military garments and formal attires. Around the 19th century, a more cost-effective stamped steel button was introduced.

Natural Materials

For those with a more natural inclination the following have natural materials have been used in the production of buttons:

• Leather
• Nut
• Pearl
• Shell
• Stone
• Wood

Buttons made from natural materials do add a certain degree of luster and sophistication that is pretty much unattainable with other materials. These specially made buttons cater to a particular market that revolves around stylish and personalized clothes.

That said, being made of natural materials means that these buttons will decompose in the earth at a faster rate than their non-natural counterparts. Here’s a overview for you:

• Leather – 50 years
• Nut – unknown, but pistacia shells take 3 years so I’m assuming around 10 years if the nut used isn’t treated too intensively
• Pearl – from a mollusc, real pearls are very rare, cultivated versions can start to break down after two years
• Shell – 3 years plus, depending on the type of shell used and the conditions
• Stone – technically it takes thousands of years, but your stone buttons will simply add to the collection of stone around them once the fabric has decomposed (which can take a varying amount of time depending on the fiber content of course)
• Wood – large pieces of wood can take 50+ years to decompose, but buttons are time, so would take significantly less time

With the above information are you more inclined to search out buttons made from more natural materials? I mean, who wouldn’t love a (real) pearl button down shirt?

Plastic

Once plastic was introduced into the scene, the playing field in every industry pretty much changed. The (at the time) revolutionary material provided cost-effective production, which made plastic products incredibly cheap. This aspect was applied to the production of buttons, as well.

Some of the plastic types used to create a plastic button are:

• ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene)
• Acrylic
• Epoxy
• Nylon
• Polyester resin
• Urea (urea-formaldehyde)

Not only did it make buttons cheap to produce and sell, but the flexibility of plastic also meant that it came in a nearly endless variety of colors and patterns. Plastic buttons also provide a decent level of corrosion and heat resistance and can be produced by special factory machines en masse. 

Let’s have a look at how long it takes for these plastics to decompose, as a comparison:

• ABS – at least 500 years to start breaking down, it is a polymer made from petroleum products
• Acrylic plastics – around 200 years
• Epoxy – varies depending on whether the resin used is natural or synthetic
• Nylon – 30-40 years
• Polyester resin – a synthetic resin, this kind will take forever to decompose
• Urea – this is another resin so the amount of time it takes to decompose is over many decades

To summarize, plastic and resin buttons are nasty in that they will take decades – if not centuries! – to decompose in the ground.

Other Materials Used For Buttons

There are other materials used for button of course, but the two most obvious and popular are:

• Ceramic
• Glass

Used for their aesthetic qualities more than their longevity, ceramic and glass buttons offer a considerable degree of refinement to any clothing they are attached to.

These two materials can deliver not only aesthetically-pleasing buttons but also functional and, to some degree, durable. If you are looking to accentuate a nice suit or dress, using a glass button or a ceramic button will add a striking visual pop to the overall look.

What Are The Different Types Of Buttons?

Besides the different materials used in making buttons, another crucial category to look at is the different types of buttons based on their design and shape. Below is a list of all the various button types and how to distinguish one from the other.

Flat Buttons

The most common types of buttons you will find are the flat variations. As the name implies, these are flat and feature two or four tiny holes in the center. These holes allow the flat button to be easily sewn into any fabric either by hand or with a sewing machine. 

Shank Buttons

The shank button removes the holes from the center and instead features a hoop at the back that you use to sew it onto fabrics. Shank buttons are also not flat and typically have a slightly raised or dome-like front. They are best used on clothes with thick materials (like jackets) or as an added aesthetic flourish, as some shank buttons come with ornamental designs.

I have a fun story about shanking buttons that involves my other half and his parents, but probably best not to go into that in this article!

Snap Buttons

Snap buttons consist of two parts, both of which are sewn into the garment. The two parts of this button type are categorized as male and female, designed to attach to each other. They can come in plastic or metal versions; both are just as durable and reliable as the other.

Snap buttons are easy to use – I prefer hand sewing to attach them – and are often used with jackets and coats. 

Stud Buttons

Stud buttons are synonymous with jeans to the point that they are also called jean’s buttons. The stud button comes in various sizes and is pressed onto fabrics via a tool or machine. These buttons can also be used as additional decoration for jeans, jackets, purses, and other denim items. 

Toggle Buttons

The toggle button features an entirely different design with its oval and elongated shape. In addition, it features two holes located in the center, which is what allows it to be sewn onto fabrics.

Like snap buttons, the toggle button incorporates two essential parts, the elongated button and a loop that acts as its fastener. These buttons are often used primarily for their aesthetic qualities and are commonly found on the traditional duffle coat amongst other garment types.

Decorative Buttons

If you find buttons that feature odd shapes and designs, these fall into the decorative button category. While eye-catching, the decorative button’s irregular shape might not fit into standard buttonholes.

Therefore, if you wish to use decorative buttons, you might need to make readjustments to any buttonholes on your garments or sewing patterns.

Button Uses In Sewing And Fashion

Finally, let’s look into where buttons are commonly used in sewing and fashion which will give you some ideas on how you can incorporate buttons into your designs or projects.

Shirts And Blouses

The most common garment type to use buttons, shirts have them down the center front opening, on cuffs and sometimes on collars too.

Shirt buttons are usually a flat button type, but more extravagant styles of shirts can see a greater variety of buttons used as a fastening.

Blouses on the other hand are likely to use more delicate versions, such as shell buttons, pearl buttons or even small covered fabric buttons. And instead of a button hole you may find that they are closed by inserting it into a fabric or elastic loop.

Pants, Trousers And Shorts

While many pants and trousers use a zipper fly as their fastening of choice, they are often still closed with a flat button on the waistband. The only exception is jeans, on which you’ll find a metal jeans button on the waistband instead.

You’ll also find flat buttons on back pockets, and accordion pockets too, if the style is more casual like a cargo pant.

Finally, pants that have button flies instead of zippered flies have a row of buttons that are flat, hidden in a placket.

Jackets And Coats

While zippers are a favorite fastening type for many jackets, buttons are also popular too. And different jacket and coat styles often use different button types. Here are three examples:

• Duffle coat buttons are usually toggles made mostly from wood or plastic, and run down the front opening
• Denim jacket buttons are almost always jeans buttons, which work with the overall look of a denim jacket
• Leather jackets are often thought of as being biker jackets in style, and while those do have zippered fastenings, your standard jacket made up in leather often uses either plastic or leather buttons which are usually shanked rather than flat.

Skirts And Dresses

Similar to pants, skirts often use buttons on the waistband too along with a zipper of some type.

However, both dresses and skirts can have completely buttoned up openings, located at the center front, off to one side of the front or even the center back.

The benefit of a full length button opening on skirts and dresses is that the buttons can be left unbuttoned if you prefer your opening to be more flexible in length.

Final Thoughts On Button Usage

While some people hate the idea of creating buttonholes and hand sewing on buttons, they are often a lot easier for people to create than a zippered fastening. However, buttons are not necessarily the most suitable fastening to use if you’re making something for someone who needs better accessibility.

Buttons are fiddly in nature, and not everyone finds it easy to insert them into their respective holes. For this reason you should also consider other types of clothes fasteners when creating clothing for other people.

Finally, while buttons are a great way for many to fasten garments, it’s worth considering the material the button is made with. More natural based buttons will undoubtedly be more expensive to purchase, but they come with a guarantee of sorts that they will decompose, while buttons made of synthetic materials will take more than one lifetime.

And then you can do as my family have, which is to cut them off old clothing, pop them into a container and reuse them when a new garment is sewn up. Win.

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