Close up of a new sewing pattern in progress

Workroom Notes No.2: The Work Behind The Work

This week I have a selection of patterns to sew samples of, some mending type projects and I need to get at least one of the bridesmaids dresses toiled up as well. I also need to crack on with some inspiration for this month’s project in my Creative Dressmaking membership and finish off the pants project from January. I’ll list out what needs to be done and will update it as the week progresses so that you can see what I did get done!

I should note that the working week will be smaller this week: Monday is a bank holiday in the UK (which I still follow for some reason) and Tuesday is a bank holiday in The Netherlands which my fiancé forces me to take them off too.

Disclaimer: This will be written up at the beginning of each week as a workroom ‘To Do’ list and then added to on the weekend with progress updates and photos.

Getting Buttoned Up

A gentle start to the week perhaps? I have two shirts that need to have their buttons changed up. The first is the original Jude shirt pattern that I sewed up in a gorgeous pink peace silk quite a few years ago. This pattern will be available again soon, but it’s not top priority to finalise.

The buttons I had added previously were, as they are too heavy for the fabric and I found that whenever I reached for it, a button would need reinforcing first.

Wednesday Update: With the above in mind, I removed the original silver buttons and sewed on a matching set of deep maroon coloured buttons. This is not normally something I would do, but my fiancé D thought it looked good so I rolled with it as it meant I didn’t need to order a specific set of buttons in.

Close up details of new buttons on my pink silk shirt.
A line of dark red buttons on my original silk shirt from my Jude shirt sewing pattern.

The second shirt was one I created for my book, and is made from a pinstripe shirting fabric I got from Berwick Street years ago when there were still fabric shops to visit!

The original buttons I had sewn on were sailor buttons with small shanks and while they looked great, I did feel like they were also too heavy in weight.

The original shirt buttons

Wednesday Update: Alas, I removed them this week and after spending far too much time searching through my multiple button tins, I ended up using some odd coloured buttons that were all the same style and size.

D is not convinced by the miss-matched effect – I won’t repeat what he said when I gleefully showed my shirt to him! 😆 – but I rather love the effect and have worn this shirt two days this week since!

The non-matching buttons on my pinstriped shirt

Starling Summer Dress Pattern

This is one I pulled from my filing cabinet last week and has been on my ‘to finish’ list for a while. With summer fast approaching I think it will be great to finally get this pattern digitised, sampled one more time and then available asap.

My plan is to use the cotton double gauze for this iteration, and I’ll make it shorter. Double gauze is such a lovely fabric for summer, and I’m hoping it’ll fit my great-niece when I see her again in June.

Wednesday Update: The fabric has been cut and it is ready to sew. I’m going to try and video this on Friday so it can be a video tutorial for the pattern.

The double gauze version of the Starling Summer Dress pattern cut and ready to sew

Friday Update: The lined bodice has been put together, as well as the skirt. I’m playing with the idea of some embroidery around the neckline and the hem, and will need to decide this before I finish the main construction. You can see the small sample I did as a test right on top!

The red cotton double gauze Starling summer dress is coming together

The Cowl Neck Top

I mentioned in last week’s email that I had been pondering what to do with the poly satin polka dot fabric I bought back from the UK. I’m not one for polyester usually, but I felt the urge to recreate a pattern that I made for a fashion project back at uni when I studied fashion design.

The photo below is me in the dress version I made, and this photo was taken around 2013.

Eve in original white jersey cowl dress

The new version of the pattern – currently unnamed – was ready to go and I cut out the front on the bias, but I did not have enough fabric for the full back piece. You can see in the photo on the right that there is about 16cm / 6.5″ of fabric needed.

The dark blue polka dot poly satin fabric for my cowl draped top
The incomplete cowl neck top pattern cut from polka dot polyester satin

At this point, I’m not sure what I’ll do to make it work, and will report back when I’ve decided!

Friday Update: This project has been put to one side for now. I need to go through my fabric stash over the weekend to see what I have that might work, and failing that I have a fabric fair next weekend that may provide what I need.

Small Pouch Pattern

I got the first unlined version finished last week, and started the second lined coin purse version. I’m hoping that I will have time to get the leather sewing machine out to finish this one off.

Fabric Weaving

This month’s theme in my Creative Dressmaking membership is fabric weaving, and I have a box of fabric scraps that I want to experiment with. It may not happen during the working hours, but perhaps on the evenings when my brain can’t think of technical things.

Double Circle Skirt: Placket and Waistband

I have been desperate to get the double circle skirt finished up. I cut it in blue linen last summer, and all it needs now is the placket opening which will be the fastening and the waistband.

The pattern for the placket has been created – I’ve gone for a pleated effect – so it’s just a case of sewing a test version and then if that works, sew it on the double circle skirt

The placket pattern for my double circle skirt

Friday Update: This has still not happened. The placket pattern is still on the table, but I got distracted by a different pattern. Oops!

Stretch Denim Upcycle Project

I wrote about the project ideas I had for upcycling old stretch denim and I have the denim jeans in question cut and ready to use. I just haven’t had time to actually decide on the project and get it sewn.

Perhaps this week I’ll sketch up some design ideas, and then see what patterns I have in my filing cabinet that might work.

Pants Project Finishing Touches

In January the project for my Creative Dressmaking members was a pants project and I made a gorgeous pair in brown linen. The only thing stopping me from wearing them is the addition of some elastic at the back waist.

As the weather is starting to warm up, it would be great to get these finished this week so that they can be worn before it becomes too hot for me. But I can also get some nice photos taken as promotional content for when the membership properly reopens.

Bridesmaid Dress No.1

I need to get one bridesmaid dress toiled up this week. I got the pattern printed and glued together last week – I’m using the Magnolia dress pattern from Deer & Doe – but a toile is the next step so I can work out how much fabric I need for all three.

Friday Update: As of today (the morning!) I have not even started a toile. This weekend looks like it’ll be a busy one for me!

Mens Bodice Block

Looking at the big picture for what I’m doing in my business, I decided a little while ago that I would also start developing some menswear patterns. This process starts with finessing a mens bodice block, which I have now done.

The next step is to use it to create a shirt. My guinea pig for this will be my Dad as he needs a nice shirt as father of the bride in August, and he is as particular as me when it comes to collars on shirts.

I’ve asked him for measurements, and I will get the pattern created for him this week.

Friday Update: This is not happening this week. I’ve pushed it to the weekend, and will report back!

Willow Wallet Pattern

I am hoping to get the version for my Dad sewn up this week. It means dragging out my old Singer sewing machine, and finding out a suitable heavy thread to use for the leather, but it would be good to finish it.

Right, that’s the plan for this week – I’ll update midweek and then again on Friday! Let me know what you’re working on this week in the comments!

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