Visible Bias Binding Tutorial (Using Bias Tape)

I’ve always used bias tape in my sewing projects, as it is a nice way to finish fabric edges. It can be used as a visible detail on the right side of a garment, or used as a facing technique and tucked away from sight. Either way, bias tape is a tool in your belt when sewing your own clothes!

This bias binding tutorial shows you how to use bias tape to create a top-stitched bound hem. I also have other tutorials using bias tape, which you may also find helpful, and I’ll leave those linked at the end for those interested.

Some of the links in this article are affiliate links. This means that I may receive a fee at no extra cost to you if you purchase a recommended product.

As mentioned above, bias binding can be used to ‘bind’ the raw edge of fabric. It helps to enclose the raw edge and prevents fraying, but you can also use bias binding as a design detail or fashion statement.

You can buy bias tape pre-made in different widths at haberdashery stores. I usually stock up on the 1″/25mm wide version. Here are the more common widths that you can buy pre-made as single fold or double fold bias tape:

• ½”/12 mm
• 1″/25 mm
• 2″/50mm

Bias tape and bias binding are the same thing, the only difference is in how they are both used.

Bias tape is the item being used – long strip of fabric cut on the bias – and when bias tape is used to wrap a fabric edge, it is referred to as bias binding.

You should also be aware that bias tape is inherently stretchy. Not because of any added stretch fibre, but because it is cut on the bias of the fabric – a 45º angle from the selvedge – and it is this that gives it the stretch. This is why it is important not to stretch the fabric strips when making your own bias binding tape, as stretching will take away the benefit of using bias tape!

The green bias tape in the image below is a custom tape I created for a client project.

If you’d like to learn how to make your own bias tape, I have a short tutorial you can follow.

Bias Binding Tutorial: Using Bias Tape To Finish Edges

Let me show you how to use bias tape to finish the edges of your sewn projects! In this example, I’ve used bias tape to bind the edge of my DIY wrap skirt.

There are several ways that you can use bias binding tape to finish edges, but in this tutorial I’ll show you how to topstitch your binding into place as a hem finishing technique.

1. Fold Your Bias Binding Tape

For me, once you have cut the length of bias binding tape needed, the first step is then to create the clean folded edge. This is because when left until last, it can be quite tricky to get a lovely clean finish.

Start by folding the bias tape down the centre lengthways and cutting the end edge of your bias binding to the shape you need. I am working with a 90º right-angled edge.

2. Sew A Neat Edge On Your Bias Binding Tape

Next, turn the wrong sides of your bias binding tape together and pin in place.

Using your sewing machine, sew a line parallel to the cut edge of your bias binding tape. I sew with a 1 cm seam allowance.

4. Press the Bias Tape Edge

Give the stitch line a little press and then turn the bias tape through so that the wrong sides are facing each other again. Be sure that the corner is nice and sharp rather than rounded – I use the end of my sewing machine screwdriver for this as it has no sharp edges. You may need to clip the seam allowance a little.

5. Insert Your Fabric Edge Into Bias Binding

Now that one end of your bias tape is perfectly finished, we can move on to using it to bind the edges of your fabric. Place the chosen edge of your garment into the bias tape, making sure there is no ‘step’. It should lie flush. To achieve this, I push all the excess tape to what would be the wrong side of the garment fabric.

Pin in place and continue wrapping the bias tape around the length of the fabric edge until you reach the end. Make sure that the bias binding is neat and the right length before trimming away the excess. I like to leave around 2.5 cm as a tail, just in case.

6. Sew The Bias Binding Into Place

Using a medium-length stitch on your sewing machine, edge stitch just inside the edge of the bias binding from the right side of the fabric. Make sure that the wrong side of the binding is also being caught in the stitch line as you sew.

7. Finish The Bound Edge

The last step to finish your newly bound edge is to press the bound edge gently. This will help to set the stitches and create a crisp finish to the folded edge of the bias tape.

You can see from the above photo that using bias tape is a great way to achieve a nice clean finish while also adding a design element to a garment.

If you’d like to learn other methods for using bias tape, I have a few tutorials showing how:

• Learn how to cut bias binding strips to make into your own bias tape
• You can learn how to make your own bias binding and use that self-created binding in this sewing tutorial!
• You can also use bias binding to ‘face’ your fabric edges such as necklines and armholes with this bias facing tutorial!