Happy Saturday! We’re back for Day 2 of our Saucy Skirt Sewalong and we shall now make a skirt pattern!
Have you gotten your supplies together? Are you ready for the second day ?? (If you missed Day 1 – check it out here first!)
I’m excited that you’re here with me, inspired to learn this technique! So let’s get crackin’..!
DAY 2: Measurements and Pattern Drafting!
Uh-oh.. I can hear you whimpering in despair. ACTUALLY MEASURE OURSELVES??? Yep! That’s how it rocks m’friends when we make a skirt pattern… or any pattern for ourselves actually! 😉
I’m currently working on recording a video lesson for about measuring the body… And as it’s winter, and post Christmas, I feel FAT. I feel BLURGH. But ya know something? Measuring ourselves is a job that has to be done, and it has to be done right. Coz as the end of the day, we’re here to look amazing right? We don’t need a size six figure to rock some amazing fashion creations, we just need to have them fit us properly. So, let’s get measured!
Mini Measuring Video!
Ok guys… I’ve received some emails regarding the measuring aspect, so I have made this mini FB Live video showing the key measurements. Hopefully this helps you with measuring yourself! 🙂
These are the measurements you will need for this sewalong – which is a sewalong and a pattern-a-long! 😉
- Waist: place the tape around you at the waist section that you like to wear your skirts at. Mine was 97cm!
- Hips: measure the widest part of hips. Mine? 112cm.
- Waist to Hips: this is the distance between the waist and the hip measurements you just took. Typically 20cm if placing waist measurement at the belly button, but it varies with each person.Mine is 17cm. Don’t skip this, we need it to be accurate! 🙂
- Length: How long would you like your skirt to be? I’ve measured mine so that it falls mid thigh. Saucy! 😉
- Next up, we need to decide how many panels we want. As we’re doing this pattern for the first time, I’d suggest 6 or 8.
- Six panels means the zip opening will go at the side seam
- Eight panels means you can put the zip opening at the centre back
- How many panels would you like to go around your body?
- Draw a line on your piece of paper the length of your predetermined skirt length. I made mine 46cm.
Make a Skirt Pattern
This next stage is the maths part.. Uh-oh.. how many of you are a tad crappy with the numbers? Grab some scrap paper or a calculator and lets crack on…
- Take your waist and hip measurements and divide the number by the panel quantity. Eg: my waist is 97cm, and I wanted 8 panels. So, I divide 97 by 8 to get 12.13cm.
- Draw a line squared across the top (that is techie talk for a 90* angle) of the original length line. This is now your waistline. (Pop a W next to this line!)
- Measure half the panel width either side of the line. As example above, I would have 12.13÷2 which is = to 6.65cm on each side of the centre line.
- Are you still with me?
- Next, measure down from the waistline and mark the point that is the distance measured between waist and hips. My waist to hips measurements is 17cm so I square across with a 90* angle. (Write a H next to this line).
- Using the previous example, I would have a hip measurement of 112cm. Divided by 8 panels equals 14cm. This I then halve again, and place 7cm one side of the line, and 7.5cm the other side of the line. Phew.
- Finally, square across at the bottom of the skirt length line, for the final hem.
- One final measurement that can be used: measure the circumference around the mid thigh area, to make sure the skirt is not too tight here. You will also need to measure down from the hip point to accurately plot this measurement. Again, square across with 90* angle and add half the total per panel to this line.
- Now, take your pencil and using a light arm motion, sketch in a curve from the waist to the hip point. It needs to be a loose line, so please don’t hold your pencil too tight, like I did the first time I tried this! 🙂
- Check where the next point is on paper – this will be the mid thigh point – and draw a line to there, keeping it slightly curved if a close fit is required. If you have not taken this measurement because you want something looser, you can continue from the hip straight down, running parralel to the centre line, or draw a line slightly flared for an A-line skirt.
- Using a ruler or tape measure. Carefully mark a line 1cm / 1.5cm from the original line, all the way around the panel. This is your seam allowance. The oirginal line will be your stitchline.
- Using panels in this way acts like dart supression which means we are fitting the fabric around the body. This helps us have a better fit for your body. Sometimes, we may need to curve the waist to hip line differently but this can be done after a toile has been made to test the fit.
- Cut away the excess paper, so that all that remains is one panel. And mark notches in the following places: waist, hips, mid thigh.
Now, this is what my pattern looks like. Remember, this one needs to have seam allowance and a hem allowance added to it. The pattern piece can also be jazzed up a LOT to make it much more creative. I’ll show you how to do that after the sewalong is over, so y’all can experiment a little more! 🙂
Why This Works
The simplicity of this pattern is amazing. With the difference in the waist and hip measurements we need to ‘supress’ the excess fabric. The separate panels do this as they work in the same way that darts do in a single panelled skirt.
This is why I called it the ‘Saucy Skirt’ – it can be extremely fitted all the way through, OR you can get really creative with it, and add flare. You could even add godets in to make it really snazzy!
Day 3 – The Right Fabric Choice!
You’re now set ready for Day 3. Today’s lesson was a little longer than planned as yesterday’s came in shorter, but we’ll be back on track tomorrow!
In Day 3 you’ll need a good fabric shop or online supplier. If you don’t have anywhere sussed out yet, I’ve got you covered: I’ll be adding a UK Suppliers List!
So… Great job and I’ll see you in tomorrow’s post!