We are back with Day 6 of the Saucy Skirt Sewalong and today we get to… Test The Fit!!!
How excited are you?
DAY 6: Test The Fit
Now comes the time to fit your toile / muslin so that we can make any necessary pattern adjustments before we sew the real thing!
Preparing to Fit
- Please strip down to your underwear, and try the skirt on.
- Depending on how many panels you made your skirt, you will need to place the open zip seam either to the left side of the skirt (6, 10 panels) or to the centre back / centre front of the skirt (4 or 8 panels). This is also important for the zip style. If it is on the centre front or centre back you could go for an exposed zipper or a centred zipper. A zip in the side seam is better if you plan to use an invisible zipper.
- Pin the zip seam closed with the correct amount of seam allowance – 1cm is what I added to my pattern and stitched, be sure to pin yours with YOUR amount!
- How Does It Fit?
Test The Fit On Your Body.
This about these questions when you are assessing the fit:
- How does it feel on the waist and hips?
- Is there enough space / ease?
- Is it too tight?
- Do the seams curve nicely with the body or are they bulging out or cutting in?
If It Feels Loose
Important information – this is not a technique that would be used by the pros! It is a way to create your own pattern – specific to YOU – without the need to draft an entire sloper and all the confusion that can bring!
- If the skirt muslin feels a bit looser than you would like, you need to pin carefully along the seam lines to fit it nicely.
- One way I would do it is to pin the centre front and centre back to my underwear so that I know they are fixed in place. I then only need to work on one half of the body, from my centre front around to my centre back.
- Now, we need to be careful here, as the excess should be divided between all the panels in that area, rather than taken from only one place. Contine with this pinching in of the fabric, at the waistline, the hip line and the middle spot in between, until the fit is nice.
- Also think about the waistline. As the panel had no shaping at the top, it may be too straight. Do you feel like it could use some shape added?
Modifying The Pattern Piece
- Carefully take the skirt off and lay it upon your worktable.
- Use the tape measure and measure the total amount ‘pinched in’ from the different areas. It is likely only a few millimetres here and there.
- Remember that this is only from half the skirt, CF to CB, so we need to double it up for the whole skirt. To do this, take that total amount, and multiply it by 2. Eg. 2.7cm (27mm) x 2 = 5.4cm (54mm)
- Now, divide this number by the number of panels you have. 54mm (total) ÷ 8 (panels) =6.75mm
- Then, you need to divide this new number, again by 2. Eg. 6.75mm (total) ÷ 2 = 3.375mm (round it up 3.38mm).
- This final number – 3.38mm – is the amount I would take off each side of the panel at the waist.
- This technique should also be followed for the hipline if that is also too loose.
- If it is only the front or the back of the skirt that is too loose, we can trace off the original pattern piece and rename this new piece back. This can then have the amount taken from it to ensure a good fit over the butt.
If The Fit Is Too Tight
If the fit of your saucy skirt is too tight, the fabric will be wrinkling up and pulling across the body. It may be that the zip opening won’t close with your seam allowance either side. In this case, we need to measure the amount that needs to be ‘filled in’ with fabric, to make the skirt fit well.
- We can do this by cutting a small piece of toile / muslin fabric that is longer than your waist to hip measurement.
- You can then pin the piece of fabric carefully along what would be the orginal stitch lines of the zip opening.
- You may need to unpick some of the stitching if it is also tight below the hipline.
- We will then use a pen or pencil to mark in the original stitchlines, before unpinning and removing the skirt.
- This will give us a new ‘pattern section’ which we will measure and add onto the original pattern piece.
- This is done by carefully measuring the key points on the new section, and as before, dividing the number by the number of panels, and then dividing again by 2.
- Example: if i needed to add 3cm to my skirt at the waist, 2.4cm at the half way point and 1.6cm at the hip, I would do the following:
- Waist 30mm ÷ 8 = 3.75mm. Then 3.75mm ÷ 2 = 1.9mm. I then need to add 1.9mm to each side of the panel at the waistline.
- For my half way point I take 24mm ÷ 8 = 3mm. Then 3mm ÷ 2 = 1.5mm. I then add 1.5mm to each end of my skirt panel.
- The hip would be 16mm ÷ 8 = 2mm. Then it would be 2mm ÷ 2 = 1mm. I therefor add 1mm to each side of the pattern at my hip point.
A Bigger Tum Or A Bigger Bum
You may feel that if you have a bigger front / tum section or a bigger bum / back section that this technique won’t work. However, the Saucy Skirt is essentially what’s called a Gored Skirt. As long as it isn’t super fitted in design, it should work out just fine, as you are using your ‘circumference’ measurement, as if you were a cylinder. It doesn’t sound very flattering does it, but it does work, I promise! 🙂
Now, I know that today’s session probably sounds a tad tricky… If you’re not sure, send me a message using the contact form so I can email with you!
In the meantime, enjoy the rest of your day and I’ll see you in Day 7 here!